NP246 Rebuild - Experiences? Clutches necessary?

[wildcatgoal]

I am considering rebuilding my NP246 myself instead of buying a reman. The only thing holding me back is that you need a bloody $800 tool set to shim a new clutch pack properly. Un...be...leav...a...ble! It would be interesting to know if the shimming procedure is completely necessary - anyone know? Like, I'm not necessarily opposed to slight premature wear if I get unlucky, but I don't want the thing binding up.

Not one single reman company says that they are replacing the clutch packs on every unit. I got one of them to tell me that they do replace them IF they are out of spec (whatever that means).

This has me thinking, are the clutches in these (especially with very little 4WD use and literally never using Auto) something typically needing replacement? I don't have engagement issues with my t-case - it works great. But I do have at least 1 bad seal (rear output), 1 bad bearing (front output), and a play/clunk if I hand-rotate the drive shaft (which sounds like its coming from where the oil pump is more than anything).

Not replacing the clutches eliminates me having to either buy this ridiculously expensive tool or beg a transmission shop or dealer to shim the clutch pack for me, which adds time to the rebuild and downtime on the Tahoe. The entire rebuild kit with a reinforced rear case (which I don't actually NEED since my OEM one is not compromised), clutches, bearings, seals, etc. is almost $400. I can buy a remanufactured unit from what appears to be a reputable outfit for $700, but there's no guarantee the clutches were touched and they use black RTV which is NOT SUPPOSED TO BE USED ON THESE... arg. That's $300 to avoid spending time rebuilding, risking getting it wrong, annoyingly having to rent some tools from NAPA, etc.

What would y'all do here?

 

[Caveman]

Look up briansmobile1 or rickafix on you tube they both have videos on the 246 t case rebuild

 

[wildcatgoal]

I saw those. Rickafix doesn't use the shimming tool. Briansmobile1 helps. I can rebuild it, no problem. I just want to gather if it's worth the effort when the parts are $400. I was thinking, going into it, the parts would cost me a maximum of $200. I don't know why all of these parts are so expensive.

 

[afpj]

Don't forget to get that little piece to prevent pump rub. I can't remember what it was called.

 

[OR VietVet]

I saw those. Rickafix doesn't use the shimming tool. Briansmobile1 helps. I can rebuild it, no problem. I just want to gather if it's worth the effort when the parts are $400. I was thinking, going into it, the parts would cost me a maximum of $200. I don't know why all of these parts are so expensive.

Price a problem? No problem! Just call 1-800-CHINA-CRAP or go to their web site at forthenonquality246parts.com.

Quality costs and the longevity makes it all worth it.

 

[wildcatgoal]

A large portion of the parts in these $300-400 kits are made in China and they tend to use Koyo bearings, which have been a royal hit or miss for me. I can't even order Timken and actually get Timken anymore...

 

[swathdiver]

I am considering rebuilding my NP246 myself instead of buying a reman. The only thing holding me back is that you need a bloody $800 tool set to shim a new clutch pack properly. Un...be...leav...a...ble! It would be interesting to know if the shimming procedure is completely necessary - anyone know? Like, I'm not necessarily opposed to slight premature wear if I get unlucky, but I don't want the thing binding up.

Not one single reman company says that they are replacing the clutch packs on every unit. I got one of them to tell me that they do replace them IF they are out of spec (whatever that means).

This has me thinking, are the clutches in these (especially with very little 4WD use and literally never using Auto) something typically needing replacement? I don't have engagement issues with my t-case - it works great. But I do have at least 1 bad seal (rear output), 1 bad bearing (front output), and a play/clunk if I hand-rotate the drive shaft (which sounds like its coming from where the oil pump is more than anything).

Not replacing the clutches eliminates me having to either buy this ridiculously expensive tool or beg a transmission shop or dealer to shim the clutch pack for me, which adds time to the rebuild and downtime on the Tahoe. The entire rebuild kit with a reinforced rear case (which I don't actually NEED since my OEM one is not compromised), clutches, bearings, seals, etc. is almost $400. I can buy a remanufactured unit from what appears to be a reputable outfit for $700, but there's no guarantee the clutches were touched and they use black RTV which is NOT SUPPOSED TO BE USED ON THESE... arg. That's $300 to avoid spending time rebuilding, risking getting it wrong, annoyingly having to rent some tools from NAPA, etc.

What would y'all do here?

If it operates proper and looks good when you open it up, leave the clutch pack alone and just do the other parts.

 

[wildcatgoal]

Well, that's easy to say but if I don't have the part then the truck is down for days until it comes in.

 

[swathdiver]

Well, that's easy to say but if I don't have the part then the truck is down for days until it comes in.

Yep. Since it operates just fine, I might see if someone local has it or Amazon just in case.

 

[wildcatgoal]

Question. Does anyone know if it's worth it/necessary/possible to install the "updated clutch return spring" in an NP246 without one? I got all my parts, but keep seeing this come up on websites.

https://cobratransmission.com/index...result&search_in_description=1&keyword=482970

The updated return spring is P/N 482970.