Engine swap or rebuild.

[Antonio757]

I currently drive a 2002 Tahoe with a 5.3 engine. I’d be the first to admit I’m not an expert at this topic. I do know that it’ll probably be cheaper to rebuild what I have. So my question is what would be the better option if money wasn’t an issue. To rebuild or do a swap? Thanks in advance for any input.

 

[B-train]

Give us some more info to go off of please.
1. Current mileage
2. Overall condition- rusty, etc
3. Overall service history
4. Financial perspective
5. Any sentimental reason to keep vs just replacing with a newer and/or lower mile unit?

 

[strutaeng]

What do you mean "swap?" Like a junkyard swap? Or a crate engine swap? What is wrong with your engine?

The cheapest option is to swap a running 5.3 from the wrecking yard. Around $800-$1500. Add a premium for something larger, like a 6.0 if that's what you want. Will require a PCM reflash, then you'll probably blow up your transmission if you drive like a mad man.

My brother just got a 6.0 LQ4 overhauled he'd swap into his truck. Engine knocked and smoked when he got it running. Overhaul cost was $2500 from a local guy (0.030 overbore, new pistons, rings, cam, lifters, bearings, gaskets, etc.) I think overhaul costs are similar if overhauling any v8.

Most expensive option is probably a crate engine. $5k or more.

 

[nonickatall]

I have rebuild several engines in Germany, mostly german cars like BMW, Audi, Mercedes.

I would say the LS or LQ are very good to rebuild, because the where made for eternity, if you compare with modern shit.

All parts are available, the block is a rock, the enginge is from a tecnical view very simple, so it is absolutely a good idea to rebuild.

But as struateng and b-train correctly correctly noted, it depends on the circumstances.

What condition is the engine in, what was broken, what can you do yourself?
Do you have someone on hand who you trust will overhaul the engine well and economically?

Personally, I would remove my engine myself, disassemble it, inspect it and then see what I need.

Of course, I would have things like refinishing the cylinders done if necessary, but I can do the rest myself and could build my engine into a practical new machine with relatively manageable money.

But it takes a little experience, tools and workspace and then you have to decide for yourself, whether you should install a new oil pump, or the old one is still good. You have to make sure that all the work steps such as measuring crankshaft bearings, assembling with the correct torques, preparing the sealing surfaces and so on are carried out properly.

One mistake at such a rebuild will wreck possibly everthing.

And what the previous speakers said is also correct. It's probably best if you have the money to buy a reconditioned engine and have it installed. Then you have peace of mind and guarantee.

If the engine is in good condition and you have someone who can do it, that's also a good option.

If you don't have much budget, it might be better to get one from the junkyard and install it, but in any case it makes sense to see if the old engine needs to be replaced at all, or whether there is another problem.

So please give us more details...

 

[Antonio757]

Give us some more info to go off of please.
1. Current mileage
2. Overall condition- rusty, etc
3. Overall service history
4. Financial perspective
5. Any sentimental reason to keep vs just replacing with a newer and/or lower mile unit?

My current motor has over 371,000 miles in it and as most of these motors the lifters is ticking. I’m looking to add more power. I also have a small oil leak somewhere. As far as the service history I’ve just done the regular maintenance like, oil change, alternator, starter, water pump, rear main seal.

 

[Antonio757]

What do you mean "swap?" Like a junkyard swap? Or a crate engine swap? What is wrong with your engine?

The cheapest option is to swap a running 5.3 from the wrecking yard. Around $800-$1500. Add a premium for something larger, like a 6.0 if that's what you want. Will require a PCM reflash, then you'll probably blow up your transmission if you drive like a mad man.

My brother just got a 6.0 LQ4 overhauled he'd swap into his truck. Engine knocked and smoked when he got it running. Overhaul cost was $2500 from a local guy (0.030 overbore, new pistons, rings, cam, lifters, bearings, gaskets, etc.) I think overhaul costs are similar if overhauling any v8.

Most expensive option is probably a crate engine. $5k or more.

I currently have more than 371,000 miles on my engine. It runs strong other than the lifters knocking. I’ve replaced things like the alternator, starter, water pump, and the rear mail seal has been done before. I’m looking to add more power.

 

[B-train]

Wow! You've gotten your money worth for sure.

If I were in your shoes at that mileage, I'd look at the whole picture of the truck, not just the engine. Transmission original? Suspension original, or up for second redo? Fuel pump, lines, brakes, etc.

If it came from a salt state, then I'd probably move on and not even look back - replace with the same lower mile from a rust free area. If you do live in a rust free area, then refer to the beginning and look at the value of what you have vs trying to do.

You stated more power - do you have a second vehicle to drive while this is being modified and rebuilt? Do you have the area to cleanly do this work? Will this be a show type truck when done?

If the opposite of any of these ideas are true and it's a daily driver on a budget, then personally I'd limp it along until I found a suitable/affordable replacement and then sell it to someone who wants a project, or part it out for extra cash.

 

[strutaeng]

Good points on overall condition of the vehicle.

The other key question is what is your budget? Everyone wants to make 500 HP and only have $1000 in their bank account (me included). Well, that ain't really happening.

If you do rebuild your engine, you can bore the cylinders to LS1 5.7 size. Or go with a stroker to get a 383 out of it. Stroker requires a different crank, rods, pistons and balancing. The rotating assembly is around $1500, then add that to your standard rebuild cost.

Lastly, are you paying someone to do the work? Or are you going to DIY? That will affect the cost considerably. Have you replaced and engine before? Have you done an engine overhaul and have access to tooling? And doing this takes a good amount of time.

 

[blackelky]

I currently drive a 2002 Tahoe with a 5.3 engine. I’d be the first to admit I’m not an expert at this topic. I do know that it’ll probably be cheaper to rebuild what I have. So my question is what would be the better option if money wasn’t an issue. To rebuild or do a swap? Thanks in advance for any input.

There was an episode on trucks or horspower tv where they did a 5.3 junkyard build. I would do something along those lines. There should be a lsx specialist shop somewhere near you.

 

[Antonio757]

Good points on overall condition of the vehicle.

The other key question is what is your budget? Everyone wants to make 500 HP and only have $1000 in their bank account (me included). Well, that ain't really happening.

If you do rebuild your engine, you can bore the cylinders to LS1 5.7 size. Or go with a stroker to get a 383 out of it. Stroker requires a different crank, rods, pistons and balancing. The rotating assembly is around $1500, then add that to your standard rebuild cost.

Lastly, are you paying someone to do the work? Or are you going to DIY? That will affect the cost considerably. Have you replaced and engine before? Have you done an engine overhaul and have access to tooling? And doing this takes a good amount of time.

I’m fully committed to the whole process of redoing everything on this truck. The transmission has been rebuilt about a couple years ago. I’ll be looking to pay someone to do this job for me. I’ll be doing the brakes(21 Silverado upgrade), stainless steel brake lines, cat back exhaust(magnaflow), suspension(I already have it lifted((6” with 22”rims), cams, headers, etc. It’s my dad and I’ll make arrangements for the work to be completed one project at a time.