??? for guys on air

[robb.]

yea i think i read somewhere ...that u had to cut the original mounts and weld new ones on..or summin

 

[MOBmentality]

in other words you have to slick the frame and weld those big ass metal pieces down and thats your new mounts..

ok.. i guess i thought those plates piggy backed the stock mounts and used longer hardware then were tacked in place..

(nnbs)

They arent you def have to slick the frame THEN they bolt in place..(on the nnbs) it looks like all the kits are designed to mock up to factory bolts then you clamp and weld it..

looks pretty dummy proof

But as far as cutting the upper mounts off.. i would BET you could swap out djm lowers with the torsion bar sockets and it would hold a 3/5 static drop easily. I doubt it would align back properly at stock height.. but hey.. thats the price of playing the game right.. lol


Mine had djm uppers and lowers and we just welded the bag mount to the frame and the lower to the lca just like this kit.. and you see where i sat. .with no spindles.. and i was locked up.. had i have removed the fenders and moved my fuse box ida fell another inch on the same setup.. and with a new brake booster and spindles i had another 3inches easy.. the ONLY difference would be

A: you see how mine cambers layed out.. it was aligned to spec at 3/5 and on that kinda rig youre not gonna get more than a 4inch drop MAYBE 5 aligned up front.. so when its slammed it IS gonna be cam'd in.. but then.. being aligned at -7 sucks if you ever wanna bring it up to -4ish for a highway trip or something

B: when i sold mine he wanted a static drop... to convert mine back to static.. all i had to do on the front was put the torsion bars back in.. thats it.. and it was a 3/5 static ready to roll.. granted it has upper back mounts welded to the frame up front.. but who cares.. no one will ever see them.. or know they are there.


Here is where my alignment was aired out.. aligned to spec was a little lower than a 3/5 drop probably right at 4 but that was MAXED out. Granted.. i didnt have spindles so i guess if ida put spindles on it ida been aligned at -6 or so..

For the record.. i used to drive mine back and forth to tampa from jacksonville (about 3-4 hours) at least 1 and usually 2 or 3 times a month cause we had a house in both spots and i was bringing stuff down slowly while we were coming down for work and stuff.. so it wasnt a queen.. it got the shit drove out of it.. and on 295/35/24s i couldnt have expected it to ride any better than it did.

 

[ILLEGAL REGAL]

so are there any cons to putting mounts on the frame like you did vs moving the upper mounts beside -camber when aired out?

I would love to have a 3/5 or 4/6 at ride height and have alignment right and proper psi to get a nice ride and wouldnt be willing to remove inners and move shit to go lower on a 24. For the back I'd go as far as a c-notch. Its a daily kid hauler and wouldnt want to get too carried away. I get to pimp it on weekends and afternoons lol

 

[MOBmentality]

nope thats it.. in my opinon.. being slammed in magazines and at shows aligned at drop is sick.. but for a DD its stupid.. you want it aligned at drive height not drop..

My final setup would probably lay running board on a super low profile 24 and would DEF be deeper then running board on a low pro 22.


This is the way i did it i did DJM LCA/UCA / fabbed upper brackets, no front sway or shocks.. i know it sounds funny but the 600psi SS bags are so stiff i didnt feel i needed them.. adding shocks would be simple though.. removed ass much crap as i could in the driveway (plastic fender inserts ect)

The rear i did a c notch (DEEEP put it in as HIGH as you can) djm trailing arm relocators and a behind the axle bracket kit with a simple fabbed up rear 2 link (no panhard on a behind the axle setup) and a 2500 low psi firestone and belltech shocks


Then of course all the rolled fenders and trimming anything i could , old mounts, the top eyes on the stock upper trailing arms, anything i seen room to get deeper on.


If i had it to do again THIS is what id do different.. i would have gotten my trailing arms extended before i did the 2 link.. put your truck at stock height and measure a straight 90degree line from any point on the fender to the center of the hub.. then slam it and see with the wheels mashed up as high as they can go where it is.. the line will be X shorter.. it needs to be extended like... so where its about where it was at stock height

With the truck aired out you are mashing the driveshaft into the tranny and mashing the wheels into the FRONT of the rear fender.. so backing it up a little and getting it back in the middle.. relieves pressure off the tranny and would have left me sink another inch.. i was maxed out on the FRONT of the fender.. not the top.

But thats about it.

---------- Post added at 01:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:37 AM ----------

here is a pic of it on oem 18s with terra grapplers.. temps when i sold my wheels

 

[groundscr8pr]

the ekmw kit does a lot of things 1) by flipping the lower bj you wont need drop spindles. 2) the include tie rod adps and heims and spacer to put the tie rod back in line with the lower a arm. this cure the major bump steer probs these truck can exhibit. 3) it allows the use of large bags. the shockwave still uses the 2500lb bag. wich is way to small. i am planning on running 2800lb bags. 4) raising the upper arms take care of the major camber curve. the suspension stays aligned through a much broader range of ride heights. 5) it also narrows track width 1" for better wheel fitment.

if you don't want to cut of your factor upper arm mounts the choppin block kit is the way to go. its more $ but they include a custom drop spindle.

 

[MOBmentality]

the ekmw kit does a lot of things 1) by flipping the lower bj you wont need drop spindles. 2) the include tie rod adps and heims and spacer to put the tie rod back in line with the lower a arm. this cure the major bump steer probs these truck can exhibit. 3) it allows the use of large bags. the shockwave still uses the 2500lb bag. wich is way to small. i am planning on running 2800lb bags. 4) raising the upper arms take care of the major camber curve. the suspension stays aligned through a much broader range of ride heights. 5) it also narrows track width 1" for better wheel fitment.

if you don't want to cut of your factor upper arm mounts the choppin block kit is the way to go. its more $ but they include a custom drop spindle.

Not gonna argue with any of this... sounds like you know the kit.. and narrowing the font by an inch sounds like a cool advantantage.. but proper offset makes this a moot point.. the tie rob parts of it look interesting too.. but fyi you can run a 2600 in the front on LCAs and stock uppers.. and all 2700s and some 2800s on LCAs and UCAs.

 

[groundscr8pr]

Not gonna argue with any of this... sounds like you know the kit.. and narrowing the font by an inch sounds like a cool advantantage.. but proper offset makes this a moot point.. the tie rob parts of it look interesting too.. but fyi you can run a 2600 in the front on LCAs and stock uppers.. and all 2700s and some 2800s on LCAs and UCAs.

i understand that. i was comparing more to shockwaves.. you are absolutely right about offset. but you and i both know the selection is pretty slim in the big wheel high offset market.

 

[MOBmentality]

i understand that. i was comparing more to shockwaves.. you are absolutely right about offset. but you and i both know the selection is pretty slim in the big wheel high offset market.

true about the wheels.. but if you rely to heavy on the kit to help youre gonna be needing to narrow the rearend too.. lol.. yea shockwaves are garbage imo.. GREAT for a $70,000 tbucket build on a mustang 2 front end.. shit for a big ass yukon

 

[groundscr8pr]

very true about the rear end. that can be pretty expensive too. shockwaves=poop!!!

 

[MOBmentality]

very true about the rear end. that can be pretty expensive too. shockwaves=poop!!!

exactly why proper offset = god