96 Tahoe dies while driving and won't start

[Snowbound]

Just throwing a few things out there to check.

Could the distributor been moved at all? If cam/crank correlation isn't within spec it won't fire. Doesn't explain the reason it shut off in the first place but if you've made any repairs that fixed the original problem but accidentally turned distributor while replacing cap and rotor, it would explain why it's not firing now. Maybe just try to turn it by hand, if it doesn't move with just slight force, don't try to force it.

Could you have gotten bad fuel? Is it even fuel? Kerosine? I'm sure you've smelled it while you've been checking fuel pressures and such but try siphoning some into a clear jar and let it sit without disturbing. Check to see if it seperates like there's water in fuel. You never know!!

Is there any possible way the catalytic convertor is clogged so bad that it can't push the exhaust out?

Last thing coming to mind at the moment, did you try to clean your plugs? They are platinum plugs and should never attempt cleaning with wire brush or anything. I know a guy that worked on his truck for over a month until he listened to me and changed plugs. Fired right up after that. He was convinced they were giving him defective crank sensors.

Speaking of sensors, you say you replaced one. Does your scanner give you a reading on crank and cam sensors while cranking? Check into that. I'll check back later as I'm off to bed, if I think of anything else I'll chime back in.

 

[east302]

Backing up just a bit, does your check engine (Service Engine Soon) light come on and stay on when the ignition is on?


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[Nightflyer]

Servus,

I've replaced the distributor an cap...the chevy runs very good a few months...until it dies..

The fuel is okay...checked.

Every sensor is working correct. my scanner-program shows it to me.

@east302: yes, the ses light goes on and stays on when the ignition is on. When i'm starting the engine it's going off. I think this is normal.

Germanys beer is the best beer. Specially here in bavaria. My city (Bamberg) has 9 brewerys (Schlenkerla, Mahrs, Zwergla, etc)...

 

[Nightflyer]

@Snowbound: i'll think moving the cap (rotor) by hand is not so easy....

 

[east302]

.

@east302: yes, the ses light goes on and stays on when the ignition is on. When i'm starting the engine it's going off. I think this is normal.

Was the CMP offset set (-2 to 2 degrees) when the distributor was replaced?

The check engine light is normal, was just making sure you had that coming on in case it was an issue with the computer.



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[Nightflyer]

hi east302,

sorry, i explained it not correct: I've only changed the distributor-cap and the rotor. Not the whole distributor...

 

[JonnyTahoe]

hi east302,

sorry, i explained it not correct: I've only changed the distributor-cap and the rotor. Not the whole distributor...

I have a 95 Tahoe 5.7 TBI that did the exact same thing that yours did. I was driving at highway speeds and it just died "Like someone turned the ignition off". Keep in mind I have had this truck for many years and this was the first time something like this ever happened. I coasted off the highway and into a parking lot where I parked the truck so I could work on it. I started with a new cap and Rotor which was about nine years old, It had been so long since I replaced the rotor I actually had a little trouble getting it seated properly. Would not start. Next I replaced the Coil because It may of been the original and I figured that had to be the problem, would not start. I had the truck towed home because I needed to be home too. You mentioned you did replace the ICM, also know as the Ignition Control Module. This ignition part you are not replacing in a parking lot and are lucky if you even have a small enough wrench to get the tiny screws off. I had replaced this Module nine years prior as a security measure because they are known to fail with little or NO warning. I replaced this ICM while sitting in the engine compartment on a 90 degree afternoon. I figured it had to be a Ignition issue since I had fuel in the tank and I could hear the fuel pump when I would turn the key. I started with the cheapest parts and worked my way to the more expensive parts hoping for the best as it turned out the last part and the most expensive part was the problem. The only thing I did not replace was the advancer with the small colored wires which can also fail if the wires get old, loose or break off the connector. In my case after installing the new Ignition Control Module the engine started right up.

 

[the_coroner2002]

I ran into the same thing. Did you say that you replaced the Crank Position sensor? When mine failed the truck had the exact same symptoms. As soon as the crank sensor was replaced the tahoe started right up. it was showing no codes on the scanner just wouldn't spark. I sure hope this helps.

 

[Nash]

My truck quit the same way on I-81. I changed all the ignition parts and others also. It would crank but never start. I finally found the knock sensor went bad.

 

[Gmc lovin75]

Just because the fuel pump is new doesn't mean that it can't go bad on you