NotQuiteanSS
Member
Interesting, Deleting the AFM / DOD sounds like the route to go, and I sure could use a tune. (That vararam sucks a ton of air). Just wish it was not my daily... so I could do it myself and learn.
2011 Tahoe/Bad engine ticking, 153k miles
- Thread starter NotQuiteanSS
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Interesting, Deleting the AFM / DOD sounds like the route to go, and I sure could use a tune. (That vararam sucks a ton of air). Just wish it was not my daily... so I could do it myself and learn.
I really think doing the mechanical delete and tune is the ultimate solution. I was talking to a regional manager of one of the companies that do volume remans for fleet operators and they offer an AFM deleted version of the 5.3L. He said they recommend that option for any 5.3L reman swaps.
It likely would be a lot cheaper to rent a car for the time you were working on it and do it yourself if you are handy. There are a lot of people on these threads that have gone through it and can offer expert advice on every element of the process.
NotQuiteanSS
Member
Only thing that really worries me are the dang exhaust manifold bolts.
Funny how we all have the things that bug us. Mine is dropping the pan...
On the exhaust manifold bolts, just use all the normal tricks and when one breaks off, just have the shop extract it when they freshen the heads.
PS - The last time I priced out a full DIY delete, with everything I would do (top quality components, new oil pump, etc.), it came in at like $1200.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
At only 153K miles, that thing has LOTS of life left if it has been maintained. I've been beating on mine since 147K and did an AFM delete at 200K with small performance mods and am now beating on it more. I didn't replace any bearings or even disassemble the short block when I did mine. Oil pressure is great, it makes no odd noises, averages the same or better MPG than when it had AFM and oil consumption appears to have been drastically improved (although it was never bad to begin with).
I'm with Bill- the parts list ends up around $1,200. The only question is if there's any deeper damage than the lifters and cam, and you won't know until you're that deep inside it. I'd pop off the head and check the lifter bore for damage and check the oil for glitter. If that checks out, then you should be good for just a delete. You may find another shop, maybe even a performance shop more familiar with this sort of thing that would knock it out for you quickly and for less than that $4,000 quote. I understand the peace of mind in having a whole new engine with a warranty. But, 153K miles on a maintained LS engine isn't anything to be concerned with. Judging by how clean it looked under your rocker covers, I'd say it has been maintained well. Also, you prefacing your story with "I had to get on her to avoid an accident, nothing to bad 3/4 throttle..." tells me that you don't routinely smash the throttle at every drive, essentially babying your car.
I'm with Bill- the parts list ends up around $1,200. The only question is if there's any deeper damage than the lifters and cam, and you won't know until you're that deep inside it. I'd pop off the head and check the lifter bore for damage and check the oil for glitter. If that checks out, then you should be good for just a delete. You may find another shop, maybe even a performance shop more familiar with this sort of thing that would knock it out for you quickly and for less than that $4,000 quote. I understand the peace of mind in having a whole new engine with a warranty. But, 153K miles on a maintained LS engine isn't anything to be concerned with. Judging by how clean it looked under your rocker covers, I'd say it has been maintained well. Also, you prefacing your story with "I had to get on her to avoid an accident, nothing to bad 3/4 throttle..." tells me that you don't routinely smash the throttle at every drive, essentially babying your car.
NotQuiteanSS
Member
I wish I had the time....
I always feel that way. I am retired and can't figure out how I got everything done when I was working. Now I am supposed to have all sorts of time on my hands, nope. I guess it beats looking up at the ground.
All good advice here. Especially about making sure you don’t end up with DOD. Plenty of people just do a complete DOD delete since it’s the safest and since you’re right there now it’s the time to do it, either with that block or another one. Just don’t have them build the motor with DOD hardware.
NotQuiteanSS
Member
Definitely no DOD garbage on new mill. Just whom.offers a replacement mill with that long gone....
If you are going to have a shop do a replacement engine, I think I would go talk to them and see if the builder they prefer offers an AFM delete option.
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