2004 denali xl Auto ride failure

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OHSIXX

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Chris is right with the amount of wires-I did the same replacement a few months back(rear shocks + compressor) and couldn't be happier. Compressor is dead quiet and the ride is much better. My compressor was kicking in every few blocks and it I could hear it over the radio. I had a tear in one of my shocks. My truck also didn't 'sag' but if you put stuff in it or sat on the bumper--it went down alot. I also need my air suspension because I tow a few different things throughout the summer.

I also agree your primary focus should be getting power to the compressor to see if it kicks on. You could take a battery with a 2 wire leads and stick it into the corresponding slots on the female end of the plug(going into the compressor) to see if it runs at all. I also agree that red=positive and black=negative).

I have some of the same mods and the BB tune has helped with mileage. The CAI and intake help flow but are mostly for sound....the CORSA is worth every penny ;)

I see 16-17 in the city and 18-19 on the highway---and i have the 6.0
 

Rivieraracing

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If you tow then:

Bigger trans cooler
BB tune
CAI
Exhaust (love my corsa sport)
'05-06 OEM electric fans (after the BB tune)
Corvette servo

I don't drive my truck for fuel ecomomy, it's too hard to stay out of the accelerator!! If I did, I might get better gas mileage than when the truck was stock, but there is indeed more power and the shifting after the BB tune is to die for!! Only thing on that list I don't have yet is the corvette servo but that's just a matter of time!!
 

zieglerj-pdm-specialist

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I just bought the 2004 yukon in December with 115K . Already my Autoride compressor has not kicked on since March. I have checked the fuse and the relay. The compressor housing was cracked when I bought the truck but it worked. I don't know where the level sensor is or how to check it, or what else should be checked. A mechanic did check my codes and found non. However he was not using a deep scaN TOOL.

Last week I got my hands on a used compressor, and so I installed it. Now the display say's "Service ride control". and still the compressor does not turn on.

Since changing the compressor, the back has dropped a little.

Any Ideas as to what I should do besides taking it to a dealer?

Thanks in advance!

DONT take it to a dealer they will doink you sideways. The Compressor costs $187 dollars and simple to rebuild and reinstall and your should work fine after that My problem is a relay or fuse fault I believe now if anyone could help me with what I need.


Hi I have a 2004 Yukon Xl Denali with 109857 on it and mine went out on me also. I change the air ride compressor with a brand new Arnott Compressor and I rebuilt the dryer like it said and I wired the same color wires to the same colors and I put it back in cleaned all up and painted looking like new, I start the vehicle up and the error is still there. Could you help guide me to the fuse and the relay please because I don't understand why it wouldn't work Im really meticulous when it comes to my vehicle. Its installed correctly and all connections are tight it almost as to be a relay or fuse. Can anyone help me find these two items.

---------- Post added at 01:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:02 PM ----------

The main cause of compressor failure seems to be shock failure, i.e. a leak that keeps the compressor on non-stop, which then burns it out, so a new compressor might have the same issue. I don't have any way of knowing what the root cause is with your ride, but for replacements you have a few options. You can delete the autoride altogether and get normal shocks and a resistor to keep from throwing constant codes.

If you want auto-levelling for towing, you can get replacement air shocks without the electronic damping system, or keep the full functionality. Either way, the best deals on air shock replacements for our trucks is here: http://www.arnottindustries.com/part_GMC_Air_Suspension_Parts_yid15_pid95.html

I have their compressor and Bilstein/Arnott rear shocks and love them, and paid about 1/4 the price of getting them at the dealer. And the Bilstein shocks have a lifetime warranty.

Just in case how do you use the resistors to stop the error from throwing the error until I find the fix?? Please help me with the fix.

---------- Post added at 01:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:10 PM ----------

From the pics of the compressor that I took out of my truck when I did the Arnott rear shocks and compressor last year, it appears that there is 4 wires going to the plug. My guess (and that's what it is) would be that the red would be power and the black ground, but like I said it's only a guess!! If I were you, I'd be hopping under the truck with a voltmeter, and with the truck running I'd check each wire coming out of the truck end of the compressor plug and see if you can find any of the 4 with power! If you can, then I'd say that your pump is probably bad!

If you can get the compressor to work and can tell that your shocks are pumped up, then take a squirt bottle and make a water/dish soap solution, and spray it all over the shock body, bladder, and air line connection at the top of the shock. If you see bubbles, then it's leaking! I didn't even have to do the soap, I would just hose it down with water and would see and hear bubbles on both bladders, so that tells you how bad mine were!! lol

---------- Post added at 06:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:59 AM ----------

By the way, this is what I bought from Arnott and I did it through Ebay!! It was cheaper than their site! The compressor is insanely quiet and the shocks work flawless, and I've had the setup for about a year now without a complaint!! Great quality!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-REAR-AI...Parts_Accessories&hash=item588ddf0e00&vxp=mtr

Hey bud I bought an Arnott from Ebay also and Im wondering about the wire connection I got the red and Black wires connected, red as the 12V and Black as ground, blue and yellow I think were the other wires and I installed those flawlessly, the question I have is the black ground wire that is connected to an O connection, did you attached that to your new compressor or did you leave it on your old compressor?? The reason I ask is because I installed everything to the book but the ragged old ground should I have made a new wire and connection and connected that. I know it goes to the J-box where the wire goes and mounts on the outside bolthead but from there I don't know where to connect the other side?? Can you help if you connected that outer ground. Ill be in your debt. Take Care
 
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zieglerj-pdm-specialist

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I just bought the 2004 yukon in December with 115K . Already my Autoride compressor has not kicked on since March. I have checked the fuse and the relay. The compressor housing was cracked when I bought the truck but it worked. I don't know where the level sensor is or how to check it, or what else should be checked. A mechanic did check my codes and found non. However he was not using a deep scaN TOOL.

Last week I got my hands on a used compressor, and so I installed it. Now the display say's "Service ride control". and still the compressor does not turn on.

Since changing the compressor, the back has dropped a little.

Any Ideas as to what I should do besides taking it to a dealer?

Thanks in advance!


The only way those scanners will work is if you have a trouble light on the dash. If the monitor says service auto ride and h uses a cheap code sensor Wal-Mart brand he will not see any codes. The only way to get the correct codes is to go to a legit mechanic who has the 2000 dollar code reader and can identify and problems that are going wrong with you air ride sensor.
 

jvink

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I have searched the threads for a situation similar to mine but cannot find one, so I'll throw it in here and see if anyone can help:

2003 GMC Yukon with Auto ride
Installed 4 new Bilstein shocks from Arnott done by the dealer. Brand new compressor, installed by me. The compressor kicks in and loads the rear shocks however, after a few minutes, the shocks can be heard "slapping" the tops when going over bumps or rough road. It seems as though they are not holding air. I paid a garage to take a look and they did the soap water test and discovered no leaks. They said I should look at the ride height sensors. Can anyone tell me how these work and if they can actually malfunction? Arnott says the same, check the sensors. If I manually move the small rods on the sensors, can i fill the bladders too much? This "slapping" occurs on both sides.
 

NORCAL SS

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are you sure inside diameter of the shock sleeve is not to big which creates play and noise?
 

jvink

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I just checked and there does not seem to be any play side to side or anything unusual up and down. However, i did just start the truck again, the compressor kicked in and when it shut off, i was able to pull down on the shock which forced the air out again. I then stood on the back bumper and the compressor fired up again filling the shocks, but then i was able to force the air out again. I think this rules out a ride height sensor issue and i may have to go back to the soap test on my own this time. I cannot really hear any hissing noise but will have to try it again.

---------- Post added at 03:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:51 PM ----------

The shock sleeve seems to be fine and the proper diameter.
 

zieglerj-pdm-specialist

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I just bought the 2004 yukon in December with 115K . Already my Autoride compressor has not kicked on since March. I have checked the fuse and the relay. The compressor housing was cracked when I bought the truck but it worked. I don't know where the level sensor is or how to check it, or what else should be checked. A mechanic did check my codes and found non. However he was not using a deep scaN TOOL.

Last week I got my hands on a used compressor, and so I installed it. Now the display say's "Service ride control". and still the compressor does not turn on.

Since changing the compressor, the back has dropped a little.

Any Ideas as to what I should do besides taking it to a dealer?

Thanks in advance!

Install a new compressor and start the vehicle up and it doesn't kick off in 20 seconds you have a air leak if it doesn't shut off. Then you will need to replace the air ride shocks which are expensive,,
 

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