2004 denali xl Auto ride failure

[AtlantaDj]

I just bought the 2004 yukon in December with 115K . Already my Autoride compressor has not kicked on since March. I have checked the fuse and the relay. The compressor housing was cracked when I bought the truck but it worked. I don't know where the level sensor is or how to check it, or what else should be checked. A mechanic did check my codes and found non. However he was not using a deep scaN TOOL.

Last week I got my hands on a used compressor, and so I installed it. Now the display say's "Service ride control". and still the compressor does not turn on.

Since changing the compressor, the back has dropped a little.

Any Ideas as to what I should do besides taking it to a dealer?

Thanks in advance!

 

[DenaliAK]

The main cause of compressor failure seems to be shock failure, i.e. a leak that keeps the compressor on non-stop, which then burns it out, so a new compressor might have the same issue. I don't have any way of knowing what the root cause is with your ride, but for replacements you have a few options. You can delete the autoride altogether and get normal shocks and a resistor to keep from throwing constant codes.

If you want auto-levelling for towing, you can get replacement air shocks without the electronic damping system, or keep the full functionality. Either way, the best deals on air shock replacements for our trucks is here: http://www.arnottindustries.com/part_GMC_Air_Suspension_Parts_yid15_pid95.html

I have their compressor and Bilstein/Arnott rear shocks and love them, and paid about 1/4 the price of getting them at the dealer. And the Bilstein shocks have a lifetime warranty.

 

[AtlantaDj]

Air ride replacement

Yes I did know about Arnott Replacemanent suspension parts.

However, if the shocks were leaking I would have heard the compressor motor and again when I replaced the compressor. But I heard nothing. In fact the DIC message "Service the ride control" only came on when I changed out the compressor and the compressor never made a sound.

Does anyone know where the level sensor is and how to check it.

Also how can I apply 12 volts to the compressor to check that it works fine? There are just too many wires going to the connector.

 

[ATL]

unless u tow with it, i say just get rid of autoride. the autoride is out in my denali, and im not replacing it. ill either go with belltechs or bilsteins, for half the price and none of the hassle

 

[AtlantaDj]

Towing is necessary

I am a DJ and Towing is a necessary evil, so the autoride must stay.

 

[AtlantaDj]

I can't believe that no one else has had this same problem and no suggestions for me. I do not and can not use standard shocks. I need to keep the auto lift due to towing.

Can anyone tell me how to bench test the compressor?

Where is the level sensor and how do I test it?

How do I determine if my shocks still work or are leaking and need to be replaced?

How to I determine if my relay is still working without spending $22 to purchase a new one?

HELP!

 

[Rivieraracing]

I can't believe that no one else has had this same problem and no suggestions for me. I do not and can not use standard shocks. I need to keep the auto lift due to towing.

Can anyone tell me how to bench test the compressor?

Where is the level sensor and how do I test it?

How do I determine if my shocks still work or are leaking and need to be replaced?

How to I determine if my relay is still working without spending $22 to purchase a new one?

HELP!

From the pics of the compressor that I took out of my truck when I did the Arnott rear shocks and compressor last year, it appears that there is 4 wires going to the plug. My guess (and that's what it is) would be that the red would be power and the black ground, but like I said it's only a guess!! If I were you, I'd be hopping under the truck with a voltmeter, and with the truck running I'd check each wire coming out of the truck end of the compressor plug and see if you can find any of the 4 with power! If you can, then I'd say that your pump is probably bad!

If you can get the compressor to work and can tell that your shocks are pumped up, then take a squirt bottle and make a water/dish soap solution, and spray it all over the shock body, bladder, and air line connection at the top of the shock. If you see bubbles, then it's leaking! I didn't even have to do the soap, I would just hose it down with water and would see and hear bubbles on both bladders, so that tells you how bad mine were!! lol

---------- Post added at 06:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:59 AM ----------

By the way, this is what I bought from Arnott and I did it through Ebay!! It was cheaper than their site! The compressor is insanely quiet and the shocks work flawless, and I've had the setup for about a year now without a complaint!! Great quality!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-REAR-AI...Parts_Accessories&hash=item588ddf0e00&vxp=mtr

 

[AtlantaDj]

Connectors

Actually the connector has about 8 wires. One is red and one is black. So should I just connect a car battery directly to the red and black connectors on the compressor end?

With the compressor not comming on, how can I check for a leak. If there was a leak, the back of the truck would have dropped, right?

I have read that thhe level sensor is in the wheel well. There is nothing I can find that looks like a level sensor. Can someone please post a picture!!!

 

[Rivieraracing]

Here's a pic of my compressor for my truck, yours should be about the same!! As for testing the shocks for leaking, you gotta get the compressor going in order to see if they are leaking, so focus on that first!! And no, my shocks didn't sag at all when they were empty of air, but as soon as you put something heavy on the back is when it would drop to its bump stops (I found out as soon as I hooked up my toyhauler).
Wish I could help you on the rest!

 

[AtlantaDj]

tHANKS

Thats great. I will compare when I get home.

What you said makes sense.

Out of all the mods you have on your vehicle, has any improved your fuel effeciency?

Thanks