06 Yukon XL - transmission??

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

NovaRacer

Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2009
Posts
37
Reaction score
0
Location
North Carolina
Wife called me the other night on the way home.

Truck will not shift out of 2nd gear. It's not flaring in 2nd, just won't shift out that gear.

Ideas?

Pulling the pan of tonight to see what's up.

No codes, CEL is off.

WB
 
OP
OP
NovaRacer

NovaRacer

Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2009
Posts
37
Reaction score
0
Location
North Carolina
No, I don't think a rebuild is in order.

It is not surging / flaring, or hunting for gears. The computer scanner shows it is going into 3rd and 4th, so that makes me think it is 1 of the 4 solenoids in the transmission case itself. If it was hydraulic or computer electrical, I would think it would throw a code.

I pulled all of them out tonight, and will be getting replacements this weekend.

I also cleaned the valve body, but didn't find any trash or pieces of gaskets, but did find a few o-rings that were oblong, and have replaced those.

I'm betting it is either the "a" or "b" shift solenoids that have failed.

Hopefully I'll find it and post for anyone that has or will have the same issues.

WB
 
OP
OP
NovaRacer

NovaRacer

Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2009
Posts
37
Reaction score
0
Location
North Carolina
Well, here are the culprits.

"A" and "B" are the shift solenoids. each comes on for a different shift, and then both come on for the final shift. Neither one of them made a difference when I changed them.

The other 2 are PWM (that might not be the correct term)downshift solenoids. I don't know which one it was, because I changed both after changing the shift solenoids separately, putting it back together and driving it around the block.

One of those were bad. It shifts perfectly now.

I didn't see any trash in the pan, but did notice that the plastic inserts in the flow passage and 2 aluminum o-rings were slightly oblong. It could have been me that caused it when taking apart, so I changed them along with a new filter when I re-installed the valve body.

All told I spent less than $90 for parts including the filter and new fluid. I did have to re-stock the beer fridge of the friend that let me use his shop and lift, but that was well worth the money.

Hopefully this will help some of you if you run into this, and don't want to go the transmission shop route. Nothing against those guys, but I think most times a rebuild is just a easy (expensive) fix for a small problem.

Ironically, I put it in the GMC dealership's shop yesterday for a recall on the spare tire release mechanism, and for them to fix the 3rd brakelight (this will be the 4th one they have installed) and they called me yesterday telling me a should do a "90K mile service" on it, which should include changing all fluids and flushing the transmission.......

WB

IMG00358-20110713-1759.jpg
[/IMG]
 
OP
OP
NovaRacer

NovaRacer

Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2009
Posts
37
Reaction score
0
Location
North Carolina
Nice work! Just curious, where did you find the o-rings, dealer or generic?

I had some left over from a rebuild kit I had done earlier on my OBS tahoe, and the plastic / rubber ones worked out of a powerglide rebuild kit I had leftover.

I'm sure NAPA or Oreilly would have them, I got the solenoids from OReilly.

WB
 

ktmhans

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2011
Posts
329
Reaction score
3
Location
Connecticut
Sweet, how hard was it pulling down the valve body? Did you have to replace the gasket on that? Might have to get in there myself. After you pulled the pan the second time was that gasket alright to reuse.
 
OP
OP
NovaRacer

NovaRacer

Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2009
Posts
37
Reaction score
0
Location
North Carolina
Sweet, how hard was it pulling down the valve body? Did you have to replace the gasket on that? Might have to get in there myself. After you pulled the pan the second time was that gasket alright to reuse.

It wasn't bad at all. But you will make a mess. I left the pan off overnight and let it drain, and I still had fluid all over everything. There are tons of pieces and parts, but take your time and pay attention to what you are doing. The hardest part is the pan out from around the exhaust. I went on youtube and watched a video on the removal. Youtube is great, they have videos for everything. I had let a friend that retired from rebuilding trans do the one in my OBS, but I wanted to do this one.

I did replace the gasket on the valve body along with the filter. The filter had a little more micron in it than I would have liked to have seen with only 30K miles on it since it was replaced.

The gasket on the pan I re-used, BUT because I had it off @ 80K miles (truck is @ 91K now) when I put a pan with a drain plug on it. The one I had off at 80K miles the dealer had installed when I bought the truck @ 62K and it was junk. It had a leak in the pump, and they supposedly replaced the pump in the transmission along with the seals in the front housing.

Hope that helps.

Good Luck!

WB
 

ktmhans

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2011
Posts
329
Reaction score
3
Location
Connecticut
Thanks, sounds like I did the harder part already. I just put the pan on this weekend , jusy was really curious if I pull it down again if I should have a new gasket ready. Unbolting the shift bracket was the worst
 

Forum statistics

Threads
129,565
Posts
1,817,791
Members
92,796
Latest member
Yukon DRL
Top