'13 Yukon Xl 6.2 transmission issues

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helpmedad

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Hello, I recently purchased the vehicle above about a month back at roughly 165k and it is now at 170k ish. Car has been driving and shifting fine the last 5k miles till the last couple days.

•It is now, when coming to a stop shifting down hard into 1st when coming to a complete stop.

•A new thing today is it almost seems very hesitant to accelerate and almost chatters in I'd imagine 4-6th gear. Noticed this otw to work and started reading in this thread in my spare time and saw a recent post concerning solenoids and getting a fluid flush and change resolving the issue. Great simple fix I thought and when on lunch Barley experienced the issue through a short 5-10 mile drive. 2 mins interstate the rest in town.

•Left work and hit the interstate immediately after leaving the parking lot and got to I'd say about 40/50 and went to speed up more and noticed I was pressing the gas pretty good and nothing then noticed the exaust was pretty loud and looked down and was about 3-4k rpm and no power seeing as if it was making it to the drive train, Backed off and let back on throttle a couple times still no power then had Power no hard shift.

•Never shifts hard besides coming to a stop, and this only started a couple days ago. Continued to go down the road and was leaving town stopped at a stop light. No hard shift into first and seemed to excel., Pretty normal till about 55 and then I approached the 65 marker and went to speed up.

•Same thing high revs and no power up a hill and then just kinda steady kept it at 3k until it I imagine caught and a slight shudder when it happened got up to 70mph.
I than Continued down the high way and hit another 55 and slowed down. Went to get back up to 70 and same thing.

•Switched to manual mode and was in 6th and slowed down to about 55 and shifted down to 5th and the same issue. High revs to no power. Eventually got to speed and put back in drive.

•Got into town where it's 55 slowed to 40 and dropped to 4th gear and attempted to go to 60 and it hesitated a second but caught and excel., Normallly.

•Went to the stoplight to turn into town and hit complete stop no hard downshift into first or shudder

Hit 35 in drive no prob. There's a 45 zone before my house so slowed to 20 and shifted down into to 4th to excel to 45 not slowly but nothing crazy under 2.5k rpm and high revs no power. Took it to about 3k and started hearing metal sqeal. Let off gas and shifted up to 5th waited a second. Tried to excel and metal squeal.

Hit drive and coasted home. Slowed down to about 15mph took my turn and acted normal at 20pmh or less through the community roads. Complete stop. No shudder into 1st, All gears worked fine.

Seems to be an issue when slightly giving more gas to accelerate quicker but not crazy quick but where it would typically I assume downshift. Unplugged the battery and turned the key to remove power and hopefully reset the transmission (ecm?) A Thing that another post mentioned that will keep the car in 3rd till stopped. At a loss but assume my tyranny is trashed at this point.

Is it Worth a home flush and filter change or should I just start looking for a transmission? I would drain fluid, add new. 10 mile drive , drain new fluid and replace filter/pan(if it's that style) then new gm fluid after new filter.

Opinion's? Apparently what I get for buying a vehicle without a manual transmission.

Reconnected power to truck to take kids to school, hit 40 NO PROBLEM BUT LESS THAN A MILE DRIVE. SEEMS TO OPERATE NORMALLY. AND SHIFTED CORECTLY WITHOUT HESITATION.
 
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helpmedad

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No codes. Only hard shift ever is the down to ist at a complete stop.
 

NickTransmissions

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Skimed the above...Trans and/or torque converter is shot.

I'll read your first post in more detail tomorrow some time but please do me a favor and clean it up a bit - break it up into a few paragraphs, remove sentence fragments, bullet point each symptom, etc as its really hard to read text walls. TIA.
 

Doubeleive

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time to shop for a replacement or rebuild, they don't magically fix themselves and start working again
 

j91z28d1

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I felt that last line in my soul.. hahaha. the magic box is broken.

time to find 6-10k for a rebuild. depending on your shop and hope they do a good job. sounds toast.
 
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helpmedad

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Was looking at remans and found em to be 2500 or less from what appears to be reputable company's. (Imagine Core refund as well?) Just about 15 mins of browsing tho. Would assume a shop would install roughly the same 3k tops. Midwest, where shit gets done. Also have a floor jack and 2x4's worst case. (Worked in a 360 dodge 2500) heavy sum beaches tho!
 

NickTransmissions

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Was looking at remans and found em to be 2500 or less from what appears to be reputable company's. (Imagine Core refund as well?) Just about 15 mins of browsing tho. Would assume a shop would install roughly the same 3k tops. Midwest, where shit gets done. Also have a floor jack and 2x4's worst case. (Worked in a 360 dodge 2500) heavy sum beaches tho!
Please post a link to where you're seeing remanufactured 6L80s being offered for $2500. If that's truely the price, it would be, by far, the cheapest ive ever seen and borders on flat rate pricing.

Most reputable reman units cost between $3500-4500 or so depending on what's going into them (and there's quite a lot - for an idea, visit me 6L80 info thread via the link in my sig).
 
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helpmedad

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I felt that last line in my soul.. hahaha. the magic box is broken.

time to find 6-10k for a rebuild. depending on your shop and hope they do a good job. sounds toast.
I was looking at remans @ rougly 2.5k. Imagine labor would be the same maybe 3k. Midwest where manual labor ain't crazy. All else fails I got a floor jack and 2x4's. Worked In a 360 dodge 2500. Heavy and scary but it worked.
 

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