Steering Center Link and Steering Box Questions

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

2006Tahoe2WD

Full Access Member
Joined
May 24, 2015
Posts
462
Reaction score
293
Location
Silicon Valley
I have a slight loose feel in the steering wheel when hitting certain types of bumps. I have installed the intermediate steering shaft and have new front wheel bearings.
Today I was under the Tahoe and pushing and pulling on things trying to find the cause. I found two things so far:
1 - the center link (goes from one tie rod to the other) can be twisted - I think this link is not supposed to do that. I think the joints on the idler link and steering box arm are only supposed to rotate. Is that right?
2 - when I push back and forth the U - joint coming out of the steering box there is a slight click. The shaft going into the steering box is not tight.

Thanks for any comments.
 

OR VietVet

Multnomah Falls
Supporting Member
Military
Joined
Oct 8, 2014
Posts
19,232
Reaction score
31,644
Location
Willamette Valley
Anywhere there is a "ball/pivot" on the steering linkage, it should pivot move in a rolling fashion. Side to side slop play "isa no good". Don't want in and out/up and down play either. That, "isa no good". There should only be a slight shaft movement feed in to the steering gear before the linkages react. If is too much, "isa no good". Make sure the steering gear mount at the frame is tight and no cracks in the frame or "isa no good". Idler arms and pitman arm attaching areas should roll a bit but again, in and out or sloppy side movement, "isa no good". Ball joints should flex a little and allow a small amount of roll because is a "ball" joint, if has up and down or in and out play, "isa no good". Click noise coming out of u-joint at gear box, you guessed it, "isa no good". If I had that rig here and with my floor jack and a long enough pry bar and my eyes, I could find what "isa no good".
 

OR VietVet

Multnomah Falls
Supporting Member
Military
Joined
Oct 8, 2014
Posts
19,232
Reaction score
31,644
Location
Willamette Valley
Thanks. Right now I think the minimum I need is new pitman and idler arm. Those are not ball joints as you mention and should not roll around.
When you replace them, cut the old ones open and look inside. Where the threaded end is, if you follow that up in to the housing, it rolls a bit and pivots there but should be tight and full of grease. If you don't believe that, I encourage you to just either use your old or your new and just weld that area tight where that threaded part comes out of housing. I dare you. Never said they were ball joints. I said "roll a bit".
 
OP
OP
2

2006Tahoe2WD

Full Access Member
Joined
May 24, 2015
Posts
462
Reaction score
293
Location
Silicon Valley
I wonder if there is a cross section drawing covering what you are saying. You "say"? there is some rolling? I think the intention would be only pivoting at the end of the idler and pitman where they attach to the cross link. Am I following you?
 

OR VietVet

Multnomah Falls
Supporting Member
Military
Joined
Oct 8, 2014
Posts
19,232
Reaction score
31,644
Location
Willamette Valley
I wonder if there is a cross section drawing covering what you are saying. You "say"? there is some rolling? I think the intention would be only pivoting at the end of the idler and pitman where they attach to the cross link. Am I following you?
Here is the inside of a pitman arm for some sort of Chevy. This shows a ball. This sort of arm may be okay for certain setups.

View attachment 385719
Yes, the ball of the idler arm and some of the pitman arms is where I am talking about the rolling takes place. Ball joint is a bigger version. So are the tie rod ends. Lots of balls for rolling that need that grease pocket.
 
OP
OP
2

2006Tahoe2WD

Full Access Member
Joined
May 24, 2015
Posts
462
Reaction score
293
Location
Silicon Valley
The answer could well be that the pitman has a ball and the idler has only a pivot like this drawing of a Chevy idler arm. This would make sense otherwise they might bind.
What do you think, what is the correct answer?

IdlerArmChevy.JPG
 
OP
OP
2

2006Tahoe2WD

Full Access Member
Joined
May 24, 2015
Posts
462
Reaction score
293
Location
Silicon Valley
IMO having a ball in the pitman and pivot in the idler would make sense. This keeps the torque from going in the steering box and as mentioned resolves binding in case not all parts and frame are perfect. Also puts the center link twisting wear in one place instead of two.
 

OR VietVet

Multnomah Falls
Supporting Member
Military
Joined
Oct 8, 2014
Posts
19,232
Reaction score
31,644
Location
Willamette Valley
The idler arm has a pivot point off the bracket that mounts at the frame but still has a ball at the other end where it mounts at the center link. The balls are there. If the pitman arm has no ball, the center link attachment does and the same at the other end where the center link attaches at the idler arm. If the idler arm has no ball, the center link does.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
129,178
Posts
1,811,725
Members
92,271
Latest member
Run4st
Top