HVAC Automatic Controls - No Cooling/Warm Air [DRVR/PASS], REAR FINE

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brobb

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I am going to take a moment and put this down on paper, as most times when a repair is made - follow up is non-existent and would be advantageous to other users if we all took a little time to post follow up, so here goes:

EQUIPMENT:

2005 GMC Yukon XL SLT 4WD VIN "Z" 5.3L 189,550 MI / Automatic HVAC Controls - Dual Air/Heat

CONDITION:

AC was cold, then slightly warm out of all vents and not keeping up as the rear AC was ice cold, could not hear sound change when going back & forth between RECIRCULATE/MAX AIR - sounds like an actuator not working [Blend Door]

1. Tried to pull codes with my old scanner and knew that it would not work on this issue but tried anywho, as been looking at new scanners for all the new vehicles [2018/19] in family just hadn't decided on which one yet [what about da' ole man getting a NEW truck as everybody else is???],

2. Order new OBDII scanner, went with Blue Driver as always have an iPad or iPhone with me & liked no cables [Bluetooth],

3. Had my AC gauges in hand, then left on work bench before road trip [first mistake],

4. Now out-of-town, scanner arrives where I am located as I planned ahead, pulls B0229 code, Recirculate Position Feedback Circuit Range/Performance, which is a common code in this vehicle:

REPORTED FIXES:
a. Replace Blend Door Actuator (BDA),
b. Replace Driver's Temperature Blend Door Actuator,
c. Replace Recirculation Door Actuator,

NOTE: Ordered Dorman 604-106 Recirculation Door Actuator [OEM GM 52405288 superseded by GM 89018365], as vehicle has driver side [bottom side], passenger side [top side] and recirculate [topside-behind air bag/glove box area].

5. Replaced actuator & reset/recalibrate all actuators as per OEM GM Manual and road tested and it was cooler but not perfect as vent temperature was not what I wanted and/or what I was used too,

6. Let's hook up AC gauges, not happening as a 150 miles away on workbench [see #3] and was my 100th WTF moment that week,

7. So do I buy new gauges or wait, with temps already in mid-high 90's, and forecast of record highs and my elderly dog to transport around, it's not happening, so I went to Wally World,

8. Got big can of R134a with gauge, hooked up gauge said ok as it read @ 30-32 lbs and anybody knows with ambient temp what is was it should be higher, popped some freon to it, while on "MAX AIR" & 60 degree on display and got it cooling,

9. So must have a small leak, will monitor and carry gauges for awhile.

So in closing, first mistake was not bringing gauges but was able to accomplish it/repair & solution using inexpensive can/gauge combo from Wally World to get going while out of town and would have been my first CHECK on vehicle had I had them.

So CHECK PRESSURES FIRST!!!

As REAR HVAC will blow cold and seem fine all the while it is blowing warm or hot air out both [DVR/PASS] front vents.
 

TJ Baker

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I can see A/C hi side pressure on my 2005 5.3 Yukon. PID is 1144. Don't think Torque Pro has that in its listing, I think I added it.
 

rockola1971

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Many times its just the schraeder valves cores partially loose causing the leak. This happens commonly when you put a gauge set on or one of the walmart type cans of refrigerant with the gauge on top. They all tend to loosen the valve core of the schraeder valve. So always get a valve core tool and snug the cores up after any kind of pressure checks on the a/c.
 

swathdiver

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Many times its just the schraeder valves cores partially loose causing the leak. This happens commonly when you put a gauge set on or one of the walmart type cans of refrigerant with the gauge on top. They all tend to loosen the valve core of the schraeder valve. So always get a valve core tool and snug the cores up after any kind of pressure checks on the a/c.

That's one of the first tools that goes into every new car we get, same with the children's cars.
 

UmmScott

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No.
Dont tap on to a refrigeration system 1st thing. Rule #1 for air conditioning, Use your Hands!
Feel the accumulator, inlet and outlet of the front evap, takes 30 seconds. Inlet and outlet should be within a couple degrees of eachother

You did the right thing checking actuators first.
Also that is a classic sign of being low on charge. The rear unit uses an expansion valve. Front unit uses a orifice tube. When the charge is low, the rear unit can adjust itself and open up more ergo being able to cool better.
This starves the front unit and cooling will be ******.

Also, if you want that compressor to last you, find the leak, PULL THE charge out and WEIGH in the 3Lbs thats supposed to be in there. If you used one of those silly cans with a gauge on it then you 100% for certain put air into your system which will drive your head pressure up and is ******* the compressor.

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brobb

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brobb

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UmmScott

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So...you're ase certified, replaced the blend door actuators, and then finally realized it was the AC system giving you trouble? [emoji23][emoji23]

All good man im just giving you crap. I hear ya, being on the road without ac sucks so u gotta do what u gotta do.
You did what you had to do to get it working good and thats what good mechanics do. They do what they can with what they have to remedy the problem [emoji106][emoji106]

Sooooo many people are so quick to throw a can with a silly gauge on it and have no clue what the heck theyre doing.
Its dumb that people can just waltz into walmart and buy those 134a cans but us refrigeration techs have to be EPA certified, have a license, etc. Kinda a double standard in my opinion.
But this forum is a great site and is extremely helpful for us all

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brobb

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