How to test steering, front suspension, and brakes

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ajquintana17

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Is there a right up on adjusting the rear brakes? I'm new to here and I am still learning my way around.
 

BananaHANDS

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Another thing to look at to diagnose Suspension and Front end wear is to look at the tread on the tires. The best way to do it is to roll through a shallow puddle and then roll a full rotation on dry pavement, the tread that is making contact will be dry and have some dirt on it, and the part that isn't will still be wet and black.

If the tires are 'cupping' (uneven tread wear across the width of the tire) this generally means your shocks are shot and are allowing the tire bounce up and down on the surface of the road if this happens for too long you'll be buying new tires.

If your front tires are wearing unevenly but just on the inside it generally points to either an idler arm or a pitman arm (or ball joints). This will also cost you new tires if it isn't fixed quickly.

Your rear tires will begin to wear on the inside if they aren't rotated properly.

This is just a quick cursory check to do in your driveway or in the car lot if you don't have quick access to a lift; and will only point to a problem not completely diagnose it.
 

Donnie Yukonie

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Most times, if your brakes feel soft, or if the pedal goes almost all the way to the floor, your rear brakes are out of adjustment.

If your rig feels like it wants to roll over going around corners, your sway bar sucks.

just found two of my problems thanks to you sir
 

Tahoe_96

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awesome right up will need this info real soon.....
 
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Tahoe_96

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Only posting so i will be subscribed to this thread had my usercp setting setting messed up when i posted above so had to find my way back to the thread
 

cashvegas

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Bad steering knuckle?

Many thanks to ravingmadman for such an informative and helpful post. I used the Steering section of his post the other day to diagnose a Pitman and Idler arm issue on my 1998 Tahoe 2door 4WD with 237K miles. I jacked up each front wheel individually; they both had no play up and down, and some play side to side. So, I ordered Moog replacement Pitman and Idler arms from Rockauto.com; which should arrive today (along with four Rancho RS5000's to replace the extremely worn out stock shocks).

However, the thought occured to me: could there also be an issue with the steering kuckle (aka steering gear) being worn out and allowing some play as well? The only reason I ask is because of its direct connection to the Pitman arm. There is no fluid leakage or other visual reason to indicate a bad steering knuckle; I'm just wondering what if. Visually, the only thing I see moving when wobbling the tire side to side is that steering rod connected to the Pitman arm (I don't know what it's called). BTW, the ball joints (upper and lower) were replaced about two years ago, and still look good).

Side question: I did not order a replacement bracket for the Idler arm; should I have?

Thanks in advance for any input! :)
 

ANder

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my steering isnt the same as used to be ,been looking at different post and said something about a evo sensor , i wanted to know does a 95 gmc yukon 1500 with a 5.7 have one of theses and if so i can i check if theres one on my truck

---------- Post added at 03:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:21 PM ----------

i need help with this steering problem want to know if my 95 yukon has a evo sensor cause i cant find it

Any auto parts store will have a replacement pump with evo bypass. It basically eliminates the electronics on the pump. GM designed the part to so that when you are turning hard over at slow speed the rpms will rise so that the engine won’t kill. They realized it’s no good. You prob won’t find a new or refurb pump with the evo. I replaced my 99 Tahoe with the evo bypass pump. Runs fine. Seems there is a little strain when turning hard but give a little gas and you won’t even notice!
 

mikehooo

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Thats definitely good to know, I am looking at buying a 95 Tahoe and the brake pedal sinks almost to the floor before it stops definitely a little scary. I would have just replaced the master cylinder in hopes of fixing it.
Try looking at the rear wheel cylinders.
 

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