Front Diff/Drive Axles, Remove and still Drive?

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TonyF

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Hello everyone! I've got a 2001 GMC Yukon 1500 XL 4X4. It's my daily drier.

I have a predicament and a stupid question...

Predicament: I'm 250 miles from home. I think either my front diff or right drive axles are about to die. I'm getting a whirring sound at speed and can feel some slight vibration. The rear seal on the fron diff leaks, but it has oil. There are indications of oil slinging around the right drive axle. Not happy..

Stupid Question: Can I just remove the front diff, drive axles, and forward drive shaft,, pack it in the back, then drive home? I don't want to fix this thing in my mother-in-laws carport 250 miles from home. What would/could go wrong here?

Thanks!
 

GM-MAN

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Depends on what 4 wheel drive / transfer case you have
If 4wd with the AUTO button, then yes
If Full time 4WD with 3 buttons, or AWD then no

If the Auto, then the front drive shaft would not spin in 2 HI, so you could remove your front inner CV shafts, BUT YOU HAVE TO LEAVE THE OUTER CV CUP-SPINDLE , IN THE HUB then the Diff would not be driven, by the wheels

The AWD and Full Time trans cases are usually open diff types and need both to have resistance or will sit and spin

btw, before you try... jack up and feel hubs, to make sure it is not in the wheel
 

WoldD90

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Jack the front up and check out the front wheels, if they seem fine, then start by taking the front drive shaft out and try driving, they check everything again, before you head home. I would doubt that you would want to drive with the diff out for 250 miles.
 

Tritan30

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Depends on what 4 wheel drive / transfer case you have
If 4wd with the AUTO button, then yes
If Full time 4WD with 3 buttons, or AWD then no

If the Auto, then the front drive shaft would not spin in 2 HI, so you could remove your front inner CV shafts, BUT YOU HAVE TO LEAVE THE OUTER CV CUP-SPINDLE , IN THE HUB then the Diff would not be driven, by the wheels

The AWD and Full Time trans cases are usually open diff types and need both to have resistance or will sit and spin

btw, before you try... jack up and feel hubs, to make sure it is not in the wheel


Im in the same predicament. Can I remove the cv axles and drive it in 2Hi? Wouldn't that prevent the bearings from destroying themselves? I don't see any reason the axle needs to stay in the hub while driving. BUT . . .

Can you help me understand this statement from GM-MAN?
" BUT YOU HAVE TO LEAVE THE OUTER CV CUP-SPINDLE , IN THE HUB "


Mines a 04 tahoe with auto 4wd.
The axle shaft goes through the front hub bearing to a nut. No reason I see that it needs to be there to drive.
But I don't know what the "outer CV cup spindle" is that I should leave in the hub as stated by GM-Man.

Pls help.
 
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ccapehartusarmyINF.(ret)

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has 4wd recently been used excessively i only ask becuase with my ford ranger after a bad snow storm one year when u put it back in 2hi i wouldnt go back in you had to drive slow for a much farther distance before in would switch
 

01ssreda4

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Sealed hub designs (bearings) are manufactured in a way that 1. Arent serviceable, and 2. Dont require an axle to be present. The nut is there to retain the axle yes but not required to hold the bearings together. Thats old school shit, nothing runs that crap anymore. Step your knowledge game up fellas. That myth needs to die.

---------- Post added at 09:18 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:15 AM ----------

To take it even further, when discussing hubs with Timken, the oem maker of our hubs, they showed pics of 2 and 4wd versions. The only difference was the 4wd had the splines cut through the center, the 2wd casting was blank and has a dust cover covering the same piece. Zero difference in actual design proving no axle is need for the hub to work properly.
 

fiatdale

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Bearings are different between 2wd and 4wd. 4wd require the axle and nut to hold it together. Take the nut off and axle - wheel will fall off. Seen it happen several times.
 

04_tahoe_912

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This is a question that I've gotten 2 answers on and all answers from experienced mechanics. I'm leaning more towards cutting the front boot of the cv axle and removing the shaft retaining the center nut.
 

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