A/C issues on 2003 Yukon.

[2kwik4u]

Hey everyone. First post here. Been reading for awhile, but finally have an issue I can't quite wrap my head around, and need some help. The truck in question is a 2003 GMC Yukon with the 5.3l and 4wd. It has the SLT trim level, and the automatic 3-zone hvac system.

I bought my SUV in August '07. Had ~70k miles on it at the time. Within a few days the A/C compressor started surging, causing the A/C tensioner to "flap" violently against it's stops. This makes a god-awfull sound, and eventually lead to the tensioner snapping and breaking the belt. I managed to get the dealership to pay for a new compressor, tensioner, belt, and recharging. However I had to do all the labor myself. A/C has been working fine ever since.

Fast forward to this spring, the truck now has just over 137k miles (yea, we drive A LOT). It's starting to warm up, and I was heading to a business meeting yesterday afternoon. It was 87 outside, and I wanted to run the A/C to keep from sweating through a suit shirt (as well as making calls on the way there). The A/C starts making the same noise as it did when I first got it. The A/C is still cranking fine in the cabin, and blowing cold air through the front vents. The rear vents however are NOT getting any cold air at all, and are just moving around hot air.

I don't really want to replace the compressor again, but will if I have to. I think that will cure the problem with the tensioner noise. I'm not sure if the recharge from that repair will fix the rear air blowing cold or not. I've been told by a friend with an '02 truck that he had a similar problem with the rear air, and there was something in the headliner that the dealership replaced to made it circulate the cold air back there again. I have the tools, and time to fix it myself, I just need to know what to go after, and how to test it before i buy the parts and make it happen. We use the truck as a tow vehicle for our boat, so having the A/C working is going to quickly become a priority.

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!!

 

[2kwik4u]

Wow....lots of views and no responses. Anyone have any ideas on where else I can look for some help on this? I'd like to keep the truck out of the dealership for this issue if possible.

 

[rich5368]

There is a TSB out there that said the dealers that replace the compressor due to "slugging" or noise like a jackhammer under the hood are supposed to install and inline filter to prevent liquid buildup in the compressor. That might be your issue. Did you replace the orifice tube and evaporator when you did yours the first time?

 

[Eagle]

if you have cold air the compressor is working.
sounds more like a blend door actuator problem to me ie rear air is mechanically stuck on heat.

I'm not an expert on the GM SUV hvac though. haven;t there been a few threads regarding "rear air stuck on hot", etc? I bet those folks could help.

 

[2kwik4u]

There is a TSB out there that said the dealers that replace the compressor due to "slugging" or noise like a jackhammer under the hood are supposed to install and inline filter to prevent liquid buildup in the compressor. That might be your issue. Did you replace the orifice tube and evaporator when you did yours the first time?

The only thing replaced the first time a few years ago was the Fan Clutch, COmpressor, and all the associated freon.

This sounds exactly like what is happening. I was hoping to not replace the compressor again, although I'm afraid that the "surging" in the compressor is caused not only by the fluid inside the compressor, but also broken internal reed valves (caused by the fluid in the first place). I'm going to try and get my hands on one of those filters, get that installed, and then recharge the system. See if that helps the "jackhammering" sound of the compressor surging.

I think the rear air is a blend door problem, as the front air still blows cold, aside from the "jackhammering" noise. I have a coworker with an '04 Tahoe with rear air. He claims that "something in the headliner" was replaced, and said that it was "Some kind of door thing"

You guys think this is something I should let the dealer decipher and fix, or you think it's something I can tackle in the garage with the appropriate tools?!?!