14 Tahoe ZW7 suspension

[ECaseyP]

I was trying to figure out what shocks and struts to order for my 14 LT Tahoe. The RPO codes say it has the ZW7 suspension. There are no wires going to the front struts and nothing hooked up to the rear shocks. So is it truly a ZW7 suspension? Everything looks stock.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

From what I understand...... ZW7: Premium Smooth Ride suspension, using conventional shocks in the front and self-leveling Nivomat shocks in the rear.

Other folks on the Forum more knowledgeable than me on the ZW7 suspension will chime in.

 

[swathdiver]

I was trying to figure out what shocks and struts to order for my 14 LT Tahoe. The RPO codes say it has the ZW7 suspension. There are no wires going to the front struts and nothing hooked up to the rear shocks. So is it truly a ZW7 suspension? Everything looks stock.

Check your RPO Sheet for the 6XX and 7XX codes, then plug your VIN in here and have a look to see what the front struts are:

https://parts-catalog.acdelco.com/acesCat.php

I caution against purchasing pre-assembled struts assemblies, they do not perform the same or last as long. If you are apt to rebuild the struts, use all new GM OE parts.

If your truck is a Z71, she'll have Rancho shocks.

 

[swathdiver]

From what I understand...... ZW7: Premium Smooth Ride suspension, using conventional shocks in the front and self-leveling Nivomat shocks in the rear.

Other folks on the Forum more knowledgeable than me on the ZW7 suspension will chime in.

Hey Joe, in our generation the Nivomats were only used in 2007. After that just dumb shocks.

 

[ECaseyP]

Check your RPO Sheet for the 6XX and 7XX codes, then plug your VIN in here and have a look to see what the front struts are:

https://parts-catalog.acdelco.com/acesCat.php

I caution against purchasing pre-assembled struts assemblies, they do not perform the same or last as long. If you are apt to rebuild the struts, use all new GM OE parts.

If your truck is a Z71, she'll have Rancho shocks.

The day I posted this I stopped by the parts store and got new struts and shocks for it. I went with KYB gas-a-just strut assemblies and rear shocks. It rides way better than it did when I bought it. I could have save a little more money and just got the strut shocks and reinstalled the springs, but I didn't feel like fighting with all of that. I was a mechanic for 20 years (mainly diesel) and I really don't enjoy fooling with stuff like that anymore. I guess I got soft when I changed careers last year.

I guess I knocked an ABS sensor loose because now my ABS light is on. I think it's the passenger rear sensor wire. I'll probably crawl under it this evening and see if that is the problem. I know there was a loose pigtail but I didn't try to figure out where it went. We'll see if guess.

 

[swathdiver]

The day I posted this I stopped by the parts store and got new struts and shocks for it. I went with KYB gas-a-just strut assemblies and rear shocks. It rides way better than it did when I bought it. I could have save a little more money and just got the strut shocks and reinstalled the springs, but I didn't feel like fighting with all of that. I was a mechanic for 20 years (mainly diesel) and I really don't enjoy fooling with stuff like that anymore. I guess I got soft when I changed careers last year.

I guess I knocked an ABS sensor loose because now my ABS light is on. I think it's the passenger rear sensor wire. I'll probably crawl under it this evening and see if that is the problem. I know there was a loose pigtail but I didn't try to figure out where it went. We'll see if guess.

The ABS sensor bolts onto the top of the axle tube and then connects up along the frame, you'll find it. It's all in the area where the shock attaches to both ends.

 

[ECaseyP]

Sure enough it was an unplugged sensor on the right rear on top of the frame. Right where you have to go over the top of the frame for the top shock bolt. Plugged it in and the lights went out.

 

[wjburken]

Sure enough it was an unplugged sensor on the right rear on top of the frame. Right where you have to go over the top of the frame for the top shock bolt. Plugged it in and the lights went out.

This is such a common issue when replacing rear shocks am that Arnott actually puts a little flyer in the box with their air shocks telling you to double check the connection.