03 Yukon. No Start, just Click

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Merc1973

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Happened at work today. Now getting towed home. Tried jumper cables, jumper pack, cleaning and tightening battery terminals, hitting starter and solenoid while some else turns key.

Turn of key just gives ONE loud CLICK of the starter solenoid.

So it must be the starter. It's original at 230k miles. I'm about to pick up a reman Carquest for $134 after online coupon code. Is it the starter like I think? Someone else mentioned it could be the Starter Module in the steering column???




SOLVED: It was the starter.
 
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1_8TTony

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Pull the serpentine belt off and make sure that all pulleys spin freely........could be that you have a locked up alternator, steering pump, a/c pulley, etc....this situation reminds me of the time that I bought an IROCz Camaro from my friend. Paid him $500 for it. He said the engine is seized and needs to be rebuilt. I got the car to my house and did some poking around and found that the alternator pulley wouldn't spin.......with the serpentine belt removed, the engine would start but with the belt installed, the engine wouldn't spin.....replaced the alternator and everything was running fine.......sold the car back to my friend for what I paid him for it. Try pulling the belt off and see if the engine starts up. It's worth a shot.........If no spin, use a breaker bar on the crank bolt to manually rotate the engine. If still no spin..........get another engine.
 

1_8TTony

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Starter module activates the starter solenoid......the solenoid is working properly because you are hearing the click sound coming from it.

The starter module sends 12v voltage electricity to the solenoid. That electricity creates a magnetic affect on the solenoid plunger which results in the solenoid kicking out the starter gear which is the "click" sound you are hearing........ As the starter gear hits it's extended length, it makes electrical contact with the starter motors commutator contacts and the starter becomes electrified resulting in it spinning....it is this spinning motion that rotates the engine.....

For some reason the engine isn't spinning.......find out why.

The engine isnt spinning because one of the engine pulleys aren't spinning and needs replacement or because the engine itself is seized (Locked up) and needs a rebuild.
 
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HiHoeSilver

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Bunch of doomsdayers in here today, lol. Starter is cheap and easy. Yes, you can verify that your engine is spinning with a breaker bar for free. Go for it. Sure doesn't sound like anything happened that would cause such a catastrophe. I'm betting you're on it with the starter.
 

06Escalade

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Could be starter. But before that I would get the free battery test at autozone. If battery tests ok put it back and test the voltage running to verify the alternator is ok. Using a cheap multi-meter, test voltage at battery terminals with truck running (+-14v dc), truck turned off (+- 12v dc). If that checks out, proceed to starter.
 
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Merc1973

Merc1973

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I got the truck home via flatbed. I doubt its locked up, runs amazing, no strange noises or idle issues. Like I said, it did this to me yesterday and eventually started. I appreciate the replies, i may just check pulleys since you have me paranoid now.

I will check the battery Voltage incase there s is a bad cell first and report back.
 

Rocket Man

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Could be starter. But before that I would get the free battery test at autozone. If battery tests ok put it back and test the voltage running to verify the alternator is ok. Using a cheap multi-meter, test voltage at battery terminals with truck running (+-14v dc), truck turned off (+- 12v dc). If that checks out, proceed to starter.
Testing it running would be hard since it wouldn't even turn over lol.
 

OR VietVet

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Like some here have said. Right now you are guessing with replacing the starter. Even with a failing battery you can still get a click/clunk noise at times. Start with the basics and make sure you have a good battery and make sure you have correct voltage to the starter when try to start. If you do then I would also say it is likely the starter.
 
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Merc1973

Merc1973

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Starter was the culprit. The Carquest reman turns over much faster than old one. Battery from 2012 still has over 12v but i may replace next month or so.

Some tips:
-remove the inner fender liner and wheel.
-remove Autoride Yaw sensor if you have it.
-remove 2 starter bolts then move it to an easier position to remove the 8mm and 13mm terminal nuts with sockets from the wheel well.
-unplug the knock sensor plug above starter for more wire slack.
-The new one had a 14mm nut instead of the 13mm.
-Reinstall heat shield.
 
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OR VietVet

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You said "test the voltage running". Can't do that if it will not start. Don't get butt hurt. Wow, sensitive.
 

06Escalade

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I'm not butt hurt. Thats not what I meant in the post. Doen't matter, who cares.
 

Rocket Man

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Perhaps I wasn't clear. I gave a sequence of steps. So I'm not sure whats so funny.
You said that before he replaced the starter, he should check the alternator by measuring the voltage while the truck was running, but he couldn't start the truck to begin with. How can he check the voltage with the truck running if he can't get the truck to start? That's what I was trying to point out.
 

06Escalade

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Yes, I see your point. I made the assumption he could get it going with a jump or charge after verifying the battery was good from AZ. If he could not, then we have a clue. If he could get it going, no 14v another clue. I guess my explaining stinks on this one...
 

OR VietVet

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It's ok, we'll let it slide. Personally, I think it is funny as hell! By the way, just remember that a lot of us are like Sheldon on the Big Bang Theory, we are looking for a way to pounce on the most tiny little error that someone else makes and then drag it thru the dirt for all to see. Wait to you get my age and you will too.
 

06Escalade

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Going to add this, may be helpful to OP. Talk about Irony. This morning my truck barely started. Real slow turnover. Unlike my other vehicles this one has a AAA battery so rather than fiddle with it I just called them. He came out, tested. I watched, thinking about this thread. The 3.5 year old battery battery tested close to 12v, but the CCA was only 170. Alternator 14v. So.. While a battery can appear ok tested at the posts, its still important to get it tested for the cold cranking amps. Battery replaced under warranty, problem resolved.

On a side note, was pleased to know that my truck turns over so easy in the cold needing only 170 CCA. Thanks Mobil 1 :D
 

loulblades

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Glad to hear you got it worked out.
This sounds like mine last winter on real cold days. After I called AAA for a jump and the guy tested the battery, he got in and tried to start it about 30 times and it finally started. He informed me he sees this often and is an indicator that the starter is on it's way out. It did that multiple times when it was cold.
I bought a new starter but the problem hasn't shown itself for some time. If necessary I have the tools to change it in a store parking lot if needed.
Probably should change it before the weather turns cold again except right now I am in the middle of changing the EGR purge solenoid and the brake lines that decided to give out over the weekend.
 

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