***UPDATE***
Finally got time to try to install both Kral clamps this morning. Passenger side took about 2 hours, Driver's side took about 2 1/2. Here is what I did.
Took passenger side wheel and inner fender off. Unbolted dipstick hold down and removed next to last spark plug wire. From...
Thanks. Although I am new to this site, I did try the search function before posting this thread and had no luck.
I found some pretty good information through Google, in threads that were also from this site. I don't know why they didn't show up in the searches I did here?!?
Here is one...
A friend of mine has a Chevy truck with a 5.3 and developed an exhaust leak from broken exhaust studs. Of course, this made me want to check the studs on my 07 Tahoe. I do not have an exhaust leak yet, but the heads of the rear most studs (closest to the tail pipe) on both the passenger and...
UPDATE: My BCM (Body Control Module) was toast. Everything is back working with a new BCM and reprogram.
I guess the moral of the story is always unhook the battery before unplugging any electrical part; and Never unhook the battery with a component unplugged. (who knew the rear latch assy...
Nope. The key was definitely in my pocket.
I will update as soon as my mechanic figures out the problem. He is short handed and having trouble hiring people just like everyone else.
ahhh,,, wait. Unless your saying the latch's plug contains a ground for the BCM....Then you hit the nail on the head.
Sadly, I don't have and couldn't find an electrical diagram to figure this out. Towing it to the only mechanic I trust today.
I stumbled on this thread on a Silverado forum and the poster unhooked only his negative battery cable and he was having the exact same symptoms as me.
So to start I have a 2007 Silverado Z71 4x4 w/5.3L
Disconnected the negative cable to hopefully reset the TPMS because I rotated the tires...
The actuator for the lock is what I was originally changing. When I plugged in the new one, it started whirring, so I unplugged it and unhooked the negative off the battery.(That was yesterday)
A moment ago I unplugged the three wire looms that plug into the liftgate module (that is above the...
Yes, I have a liftgate switch on the console. Doesn't seem to make a difference when I turn it off.
I am at wits end. I have always worked on my own cars but this one has me stumped. I have checked all fuses, under hood and in the cab, and traced down all the grounds I can find.
I have been...
I could be wrong, but I was always taught that DC current in a vehicle flows from - to +, and to take the - off to work on anything. I wish I would have heeded that lesson before installing the latch.
I also put the old one back in and it didn't change anything. Thanks for the idea.
Yep. I just don't know how to clear it. I have taken the new actuator back off, re-installed the old one; Tried to crank- Nothing
I also stuck my hand through the opening for the jack and unplugged 2 of the 3 wire looms going to the liftgate module. (I couldn't figure out how to get the...
Do you think unplugging the liftgate module might let it crank? Or possibly re-set something?
I was replacing the latch assembly with the battery connected because every video I watched on how to replace it never mentioned unhooking the battery. It seemed like a simple plug and play. When...
I wasn't trying to, but the key relearn procedure uses the security light going off to relearn the keys. How am I supposed to do it if the light isn't on?
It was higher when I started jacking with it at about Noon today. I have checked all the fuses under hood and in the cab, and even charged the battery with my truck. I have had Zero battery problems until I unhooked it today.
it is like one of the computers (BCM Maybe) turned off and isn't...
Gave it a shot. Nope. When I first turn the key, I get the message 'stabilitrak off" then "traction control off". None of the small gauges like the voltage are working either.
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