Clean out the sunroof drains. Very common..
Or sometimes the drains tubes separate from each other
where there is a "fitting" like a T or a 90*
You'll have to remove enough stuff to inspect them thoroughly
I know it sounds simple, but make SURE your battery is good.
Load test it ! Double check both battery grounds and positive cable
to starter & fuse block. If the cables are original they may be corroded
internally
The one note about the Detroit TrueTrac that I don't like is that you can't use
synthetic gear oil. The synthetic additive act like a "posi additive" and screw
it up. You have to use old fashioned 80-90w mineral gear oil without any additive.
I own 3 detroits in my ford aftermarket built...
That happened to me on my 2014 several years ago !!!
Went out for my test drive. No more suspension codes. Was just a bad shock
Rides much better. The 20" rims are better too. More rubber !!!
Thank you for that info. It's the electrical side of these sensors that I'm just
not that versed in (body junk)
I did stay up most of the night working on this 2013 REAR
Put new powerstop tow brakes/rotors/pads
The M'fr caliper bracket bolts were about welded into the rear though..
And no way...
As title states. Does anyone rebuild these (OE GM ones) ? Or pay as cores ??
These have gotten soooo expensive $$$$
And I absolutely don't want to get rid of the Z55 active suspension
Looks Good ! I'm actually taking off my 22" wheels that came on my 2013
denali and putting on the 20" wheels that were stock on my 2014 denali
Big difference with less sidewall on the 22's.. I'd think if you carry quite
a bit of weight (enough to need better springs) you would really hate...
Thank You
I found that in my search as well
I guess my question is : is this an electrical issue or an internal shock issue
It looks like it would NOT be the ride level sensor, that's a diff code
On my new to me 2013 Denali (purchased this way) I've got the C0590 service suspension
code. Right Rear Actuator issue.
Is this usually the actual shock? Z55 Air Suspension
Or the ride height sensor?
Or any advice/ Experience is appreciated
It take a while for the adaptives to learn... Sometimes up to 200 miles.
Best to change filter/fluid and then to an adaptive reset procedure OR with HPT
you can do a "clean/purge" procedure so the trans knows to RElearn the adaptives
due to a service
Probably a good idea to replace the thermostat as well. A lot of temp codes
can show up with a goofy thermostat.. Just not overheating, but "underheating"
This is probably the problem as you've stated how careful you were. I'm ocd too
about stuff...
Been proven time and time again that alot of branded parts are counterfeit on Amazon.
I bet if you bought them local or on rockauto, you'd get ones that are packaged
"similar" but not exact .. and...
Nope.. I'm bad at that . i used to be able to post right from my phone pics to this
website, but last year it quit working. I don't really have the umph to go thru a
3rd party app to post. sorry
Well, I tried a different stud extractor after I had to cut the nut/stud combo off.
And it worked. So I don't have to pull the whole manifold. I was able to
install a new stud on that crazy one. Then all new nuts of course.
Pulling the driveshaft, Oil filter, sway bar and heat shield gave me...
Crazy thing is this Yukon is spot free/ rust free in and out !!!
I wonder if some tech was mad and tightened it to 140 lb ft when it was
serviced last !!!!
Well... The problem of the trans pan removal/install is done
I had to remove the driveshaft, sway bar, oil filter to get access to the
1 remaining nut on the left side... Had to cut/grind it off including the stud
to get the exhaust down. The 1 remaining nut on the right side I was able
to...
Its the 3 manifold nuts at the flange that have to be removed...
Not the back part of the exhaust
When you pull down the Y pipe with cats, it gives you enough
room to remove the pan..
My 2014 was definitely not this frickin difficult.. But I suppose
that was over 6 years ago. Then I did...
I tried getting the trans itself up a bit.. I even removed the mount hoping
to be able to wiggle stuff around...
The trans just tilts the motor with it... Only gives about another 1/2" at
most. Not quite enough... Maybe on a RWD it would give enough ?
So I soaked the 2 remaining nuts again...
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