You need to complete the big three wiring upgrade. It upgrades the engine to chassis ground, battery to chassis, and power wire from the alternator to the power distribution block.
At the point of 1-2k rms that amp would do great but the electrical system in these trucks draws a lot of the power from the alternator as it is.
I had a 2k rms skar amp with multiple setups, including having it perfectly matched with a 2 15” 4 ohm skar 15 wired to 1ohm.
Right now I bought a...
I believe it’s RAP#2 underneath the hood in the fuse box! I’m having issues with my pass. And rear doors not locking and the controls not working. I’ve narrowed my issue down to a drivers side switch, and two relays. One inside of the I/P fuse box on the drivers side, and one relay in the...
I’ve been investigating electrical issues of my own. I’m having issues with cruise control not working, and my power windows and locks in the passenger and rear doors.
BCM ground is located on underneath the drivers door towards the engine compartment. Also, if you look at some YouTube videos...
I’m hoping a couple tires and alignment will fix my issue also! Thanks for letting me know what it was before I started in on the list also....
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I noticed that when I cranked my keys all the way up, it made my wheels look like the pic you posted. I just put 24s on and I’m getting two tires and alignment tomorrow, because it’s shaking pretty bad between 30-40 and 70+
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Thank you very much!
I think it’s because the PO had my XL painted black from white...and the black GM paint I bought does not match the black that is on the vehicle..
Just didn’t turn out as I had hoped after hours of sanding and prep!
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