I really appreciate the input from y'all. I don't see how I'm going to be able to replace the entire line in one piece and I can't find anywhere on the web of someone doing that. I think I'll go out to the junkyard and cut a 1 to 2-foot section from the same pipe, cut my pipe at the same...
I can pull an entire line off of a junker but I think it's going to be a nightmare to pull one out. :/ Isn't it one continuous piece from the front heater core to the back one?
No, I didn't cut the heater core. I cut the tip (the flared end) off the aluminum pipe that connects to the rear heater. You can see it in the picture.
In the process of replacing my heater core, I cut out the old heater core lines coming out and thought while I was at it I would also use my oscillating tool to cut off the old plastic heater core connects. Well, I wasn't careful enough and now it looks like I circumcized the end of one of the...
An actuator is my guess too. Have you tried to reset them? There is a key sequence that will do it.
https://sparkys-answers.com/2011/08/hvac-actuator-recalibration-procedure.html
Figured it out a few days ago. I *think* it's because there are some lock clips on the backside. I ended up unbolting the bracket it's hanging on so I could see the back and was able to get it off. Thanks for the reply!
I was able to get it apart today and install the new evaporator and wanted to share a few notes. I drilled down the top of each of those plastic rivets just a little with a large bit and then used a putty knife to gently pry them apart. It actually came apart pretty easy. Be gentle when...
Thanks again PNW. I'll go ahead and drill through all those plastic rivets tomorrow. I'd rather be safe than sorry with this amount of work. Luckily, I have already purchased a new OEM evaporator because I thought if I had to replace the core I might as well go ahead and replace that too. I...
PNW, thank you for the quick and very detailed response. I really appreciate it. I feel better understanding more. I just got done crying into my pillow so this really helps me feel better. I'm with you on leaving the evaporator alone if can. I just wonder what the dealer would do...
I've spent the last 2 days pulling out my dash to get to the heater core. Not a fun job but I've gone cautious and slow as recommended. I've packaged, labeled and documented everything. I pulled the canister out and I'm surprised to see the compartment where the core lives and it's dry. No...
I appreciate the advice. I would have paid the extra money if I'd seen this before I ordered it. It was about $75 more but more than worth it if this ever goes out.
I bought a SPECTRA PREMIUM 93050 from RockAuto. Looks like it's a popular choice. I know it's not OEM but I'm hoping that this is one of the parts that are more durable than the OEM. I'll let you know in 3 years. lol
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=946633&cc=1431156&jsn=2252
I have a Yukon XL and it burns about 1 quart about every 5k miles. I think it's a common thing with high miles on a 5.3. I just check it every oil change and then don't think too much about it.
Just wondering, do you feel the ABS kick in when you're breaking and get under 10mph? Good recommendations above - Scan for codes and that should get you really close to what the issue is.
I'm getting ready to drop the steering wheel column but I need to get the wiring disconnected. I've noticed that in the earlier models it's a 7mm bolt you unscrew in the middle. In mine, it's got a gray lever but I'm afraid to break it if I pull too hard. I've tried some but it doesn't...
I'm almost done replacing my heater core right now. It involves pulling the dash complete back so that you can get the heater core/AC evaporator enclosure out. If you don't mind spending $1000 labor you might just take it somewhere. The core itself costs $25 so it's mostly labor. If you do...
Thanks for the response. I know the spring that you're talking about. I noticed that hers is broken too and you have to manually push the shifter up to the dash to get the P selected. Great recommendation. Unforutinally it's got to be something deeper because the key still won't come out. If...
So it looks like this interlock solenoid makes it were pressing the break is required before you can move the shifter. Her Tahoe shifts through all gears just fine. Would this solenoid stop the ignition from turning back?
Is there a manual key release somewhere on a Tahoe?
I'm trying to help a nice lady out with her '01 Tahoe. The other day she said she got home and the key would not come out of the ignition. She can turn the key back enough to stop the engine but no further. I thought it's either the cylinder or the ignition module so I went to the junkyard...
I was able to locate this and jam a wire in there but it was clear already. I'm sure mine is the core. I noticed this morning that my entire windshield was fogged up. :/ I'm just waiting to get closer to the day that the core arrives from RockAuto.
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