Pretty sure it’s been proven that the hub is a solid piece between both inner and outer mounting surfaces so tightening the axle nut doesn’t affect the bearing, just secures the front drive axle to the hub. Still, best to go by the book just in case.
Hey guys I’m in the market for a Suburban, I already have an 08 Tahoe so I’m familiar with some things like AFM and the torque converter weakness of the 6l80e.
As I’m shopping around for 2015+ Suburbans what are other quirks of the platform I should keep in mind for long term ownership.
Thanks!
Confession time: 3 years ago when I did the AFM delete on my Tahoe I stripped one of the valve cover bolts out. I just moved on to the next one and never looked back. 30K miles no problems, not saying this is good advice but you get to set your own risk tolerance.
@alvocado My theory is when the driver side fails the passenger side begins to wear faster from the excessive movement of the motor so go ahead and do the other side as well. Interesting the problem happens in park. Can you maybe take a video showing the problem?
@alvocado It should move very little, since you've seen a bad mount in the past you know what it looks like when the mount is broken.
What makes you think it's the drivers side mount again? Have you tried disabling traction control and stabilitrac and see if the problem persists?
@RET423 At this point I am open to anything. Can you walk me through the tensioner being the cause of the problem? Does it not apply enough pressure causing the belt to slip and then break once it catches?
@alvocado In troubleshooting it's good to build a timeline and collect the facts. Is it true that this started immediately after the rear main seal replacement?
While the misfire is more pronounced in one cylinder it seems to be happening across the board which kind of makes me think it's not to do with the cylinder itself but some other part of the system.
Next thing I would do is monitor your fuel trims and report back
@j91z28d1 I can try that, it seems to happen at random times. I suspect it is more likely to do it if it sits for longer than a day.
Another thing I observed was the coolant T that goes between the water pump and coolant jug seems to be seeping coolant and I wonder if it's seeping onto the AC...
Don't know if this has been said but freeing the lifter is at most a temporary solution, there is a reason it got stuck and until that is addressed it will probably happen again but considering the title of this thread is about metal in the oil I don't blame you not wanting to invest into this motor
@89Suburban It will come back, I haven't fixed the root problem yet. It seems my ac compressor is very hard to turn after it sits for longer than 2 days and the belt takes the beating of that.
Confirmed the compressor turns while engaged and that the tensioner pulley is good.
Through a new belt on and all is well again, just not sure why the compressor has a hard time turning sometimes. I am running a deslugger
I know the first question is gonna be "Does the ac compressor turn?" and I am going to guess that since it broke the belt it's outside the realm of me turning it with my hand
Remote started the Tahoe and heard a terrible sound like 5 seconds straight of impact gun ratcheting, was hoping it was nearby work but I hopped in and it was hotter than hell (103F today). Popped the hood and the AC belt is snapped.
This has been something that's been building up for a couple...
I think you mean alternator, the alternator is what charges the battery while the engine is running. If you had the alternator replaced and you are still having issues with it charging your battery it might be good to inspect the condition of the cables that go between the battery and the...
Move it on over to the 2015 Tahoe area and you'll be golden. There will be the same caliber of assistance you found here and it will be more geared to the platform you are working on which shares many similarities with this one but has more things to look out for.
Regarding the suspension, it looks like it has a mild spacer lift in it. No glaring issues except things look old so if it rides fine I say run it and just address things as they come up. Just because things are old doesn't mean they are bad.
What I did with my rear ABS wires was there is a clip on the frame that attaches to a "grommet" on the ABS wire, I just ended up pushing the grommet through the clip and it gained some length that way and the wire is still being contained within it's mounting clip
The Range isn't bad but it needs to be plugged into the OBD2 port all the time and if you remove it you will have to reset all of your emission monitors. I'm in California and it was better for me to just tune AFM out instead of using the Range AFM disabler
I don't think a new engine is warranted but it would be good to perform some due diligence before repairing this one. I had a lifter turn and eat the cam in my 5.3 and that was 30k miles ago.
I would check the oil filter and oil pan for metal and if all seems good I would do an AFM delete - new...
Any soft ticking isn't worth worrying about, if there was a problem you would hear a very harsh loud tap or knock. Sometimes at idle the lifters can leak oil causing some slack which might make that sound but once the oil pressure rises they fill back up with oil. Do you have a recording of the...
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