They will fit your denali with the mods I pictured. You will need to cut and shave the front edge to bumper along with rear body to bumper line. The denali has a different rear bumper that leaves a tiny gap on the lower section of flare. That’s what I was referring for about make sure you mold...
Rough country lift doesn’t have any rear drop members for suspension. I prefer pro comp 6” over it or bds/zone 4”. All of those increase front track width. Bulletproof 6-8” doesn’t increase width. Might need rear pro comp drop brackets can’t be certain right now for bulletproof.
Wheel choice...
Your model most likely has the magnetic and air ride. Easiest way to tell is look for the ride height sensors. Either kit will work but suspension max comes with the brackets. Maybe ccm makes them now but not positive.
@Blkdout07
Thanks man! Definitely tried to share the knowledge of dealing with a lift on auto ride. The 10-24 rod does work just loses the infinite adjustments of rod spacers. Must of gone up on costs because they were $40 a pair. Sounds like you figured out the front splice you retain electric...
I’ve used power stop and like the stop tech better so far. Used them on 3 cars now. Thanks man! I try to keep it clean and nice. Eventually I’ll get some coil overs and ditch the auto ride system. Not sure when maybe another year
No problem. Yes with their rotors. First time with these pads but rotors have been great so figure pads could be good too. Definitely notice better pedal response already
Looks good. You could of went with the 305/45R22 versions which are XL rated and only weigh 47 lbs compared to yours at 63 lbs. Also load rating is 118 to 124.
If you want to push a 3” level then just get the rough country 3.5” kit and ride height extensions. The little diff drop shouldn’t cause any front driveshaft vibration. I can’t say it won’t because angles change and I haven’t rode in one yet. Otherwise stay 2” or 2.5” with upper arms.
The rear definitely looks way too close to bump stop. I never put that bracket on mine because it will never bottom out that far unless you break a coil off. But I can tell it’s low. Can you get a picture of the angle on the ride height sensors?
The fronts are slightly below level and the rears are just above level. No perfect position but close and make each side equal. Find a stock Denali in town and look at it to match yours
I think you will be good with that lift. You can still hook up the rods just need to be longer so the sensors are at stock angles. Take some pics before you start the lift so you can match it afterwards.
Yes you should come out completely level with those measurements.
Don’t think but one...
Only people I know for 3” would be fabtech and think I priced them out around $400 so not worth it. Maybe get rough country ones and make new metal sides then weld them in for the extra length.
See link if not search for Escalade
https://suspensionmaxx.com/product/SMX-GM725M
https://suspensionmaxx.com/product/SMX-15100M
Yes you need a dual cardan
The upper arms should work as long as they have a mount for the lower ride height rod. The diff drop shouldn’t affect the awd but slightly possible. The only issue you might run into is front driveshaft because of new u joint angles but I highly doubt it
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