Mine's just an LT 4x4. Setting 3 gave me a level with factory rears, so if you're going with Dayton HD springs for more lift, you may want to go to setting 4 to keep it level. You'll need to take measurements either way and Bilstein has product info that gives exact lift heights for each setting.
Yes. After the 6112s were installed, the distance from the ground to the inside of the fender was 37.75" (front and rear). I just checked them today and both front and rear are still exactly 37.75".
I'm glad you mentioned this because I plan to keep doing reviews on these shocks every 20k...
Great question. I measured after I installed the 6112s, but I have not measured after 20k. Whenever these thunderstorms stop, I'll go outside and take some measurements.
As soon as I bought the Tahoe, I replaced the rear shocks with the OE ones (which were not auto-leveling) because they were totally shot (the fronts were too, but I couldn't tell until I replaced the rears). Looking back, I wish I had upgraded the rear to the Bilstein 5160s, but I wasn't yet...
Having owned a GMT400 Suburban 4x4, a GMT800 Suburban 4x2, and now a GMT900 Tahoe 4x4, I'd go with the GMT900.
The 400 was rock solid, especially off-road, but it sucked on pavement. Felt like driving a school bus with that ridiculous 15:1 steering ratio. It never had any kind of issues...
I'm about to upsize to 285/60/20s (on the factory LTZ rims). As noted in my signature, I have already leveled the vehicle with front coilovers, but everything else is stock. This is 98% street-driven and the little offroading I do is not heavy. I'm mostly concerned with even tire wear and...
If you want to level it and it's 4x4, one of the best options would be Bilstein 6112s. It's at least a couple tiers above their 5100s and the price reflects that, but their street manners are as good as they are off-road so it was worth it to me. Setting three gave me a perfect level with...
I installed Bilstein 6112s back in May of '24 and set the collar to setting 3 to level the front with the factory rear shocks (pics and brief install writeup in the "What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?" thread, page 2366). I've put just over 20,000 miles on them at this point...
Yes.
It makes life easier in two ways:
1. It prevents me from having to use a socket wrench to drain the oil (which eliminates me having to clean oil out of my socket, off my wrench, and off my arm).
2. If I wish, I can drain most of the oil directly into a disposable container (instead of...
My first time to change the oil on the [new to me] Tahoe. I put these Fumoto valves on every vehicle I own. I've been using them for 10 years without any trouble whatsoever. I absolutely love them.
It is a 2013.
This is my RPO code sticker from the glove box:
Bottom line, second from left. ZW7. I don't know if I have some kind of uncommon special edition or not, but I didn't think so??
I appreciate all the feedback so far -you guys have been very helpful and gave me the answer I needed. I didn't want to ask a super lengthy question, but since you're asking, here's the background:
I traded out of a bone-stock Nissan Armada that had approximately the same horsepower and only...
Because if I had wanted a minivan, I would have just bought a minivan instead of a Tahoe.
In all fairness, I know that the term "SUV" has evolved into a catchall term for everything that is neither a car nor a pickup, and the majority of current SUVs are basically nothing more than large...
No, daily driver. But I do plan on eventually increasing low-to-mid rpm torque ~50-100 lb./ft.
No.
Only occasional towing.
Yes, I care more about city mpg.
Yes, hilly.
Hello! I'm new to the forum and I just purchased a 2013 Tahoe 4x4. It has the 6L80 6-speed tranny and the GU4 3.08 axle ratio.
I would like to replace the current 275/55/20s (31.9" diameter) with 275/60/20s (33.0" diameter), but all the online axle ratio-to-tire size charts show the current...
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