from my searching around they have a 6 axis gyro that you mount and it reads the g's and moves the inside light into the corner but leaves the outside light facing the same location. I don't know if there's any adjustments to it.
there's another style that just has a extra led set that turns...
found out today the aftermarket makes nice bi-led with a built in gyro to turn towards the inside of a corner when the car turns.
no longer oem German only tech. ugh, now I want to replace every projector retrofit I have haha.
need to up data a module and my 2 year ran out on 6/1. Just missed it. now it's 54$ and only good for 30days instead of 2 years.
and the software is still the worst thing I've every used. good job gm. blah.
oh, totally didn't read it that way and honestly I just click on the notification bell and read along, usually while doing some run else at the same time.
are you buying the 40k cooler or no?
sorry can't help much, don't know anything about water lines. could the be air hoses?
the cool seats don't do much in my 2011 either. I just figured it's old foam blocking all the air holes
just went back and read thru the whole thread. man you were very thorough with this rebuild.
I'm sorry to hear it's got some issue. I have no idea what it is, but I'm very curious as to what you find.
that machine shop bill had to hurt. I can only guess that included the new pistons and all...
definitely do a mechanical oil pressure gauge test. they are pretty cheap on Amazon. most likely oil pressure sensor is bad. I went thru a few so called oem ones off Amazon, but after inspection, I'm pretty sure they were fake.
I replaced 3 of them between 2 cars over a few months before...
I believe mishimoto has a tech article out saying they have tested this, and since the system is a closed loop, being to fast can't actually do that on real life.
I forget all the technical stuff, but something like that, old wives tail.
dealers are all pretty horrible tech wise and older vehicles don't have any backside support to walk thru stuff. I don't trust a word any of them say.
I have updated the tcm in the tranny of my 2011 hybrid yukon a year or so ago just fine using acdelco site. Just cause I was updating a module...
yeah, very had to say. could he a few things.
beside exhaust, might check for loose torque converter bolts.
did it do it from first crank? maybe cut open the oil filter and check for metal. I can only guess that if it was a rod bearing or something within a 100 miles it would be putting out...
pics of bolts and threads..
as said above. almost always corrosion on the bolts and in the holes on pumps. wire brush the bolts, chase the holes, lube up and bolts and you'll be fine. but pics would confirm
yeah, it was only a thought if you drive in auto all the time you might hear something like I do. but if your 2wd all the time then not worth messing with.
I have a feeling one of your replacement hubs when bad
rear bearing can be difficult. there's threads around here about removing them...
did you do both from hubs? also they don't last very long. I think mine is going out again. only a year later. oem one too.
before digging into stuff. I recommend a mechanic ear setup. you clip them on different things around the truck. go for a drive and switch between them. little. prices...
from this bob the oil guy thread. it seems like it's nothing new in other countries.
https://share.google/xjslXpdpVZjIs5O8W
mainly a direct injection turbo issue. probably won't be on all cars. but that they say the Porsche 911 has them. I guess it doesn't hurt exhaust flow much. atleast when...
I have no idea what I just watched.
you're going to need to buy a tech 2 man. and what's up with that engine? was it rebuild? or a known good one? exhaust not hooked up?
I literally have removed those gaskets between the vlom and lifters. still have 40 plus psi hot idle. it's part of afm bypass mod when leaving the afm lifters in there. it's not the same oil pressure circuit as the lifter used for their normal hydraulic operation. but when worn internally oil...
I don't really agree that anything involving a volm can cause you to lose ALL oil pressure. you could run the truck without a volm installed and still get some pressure, just make a mess in the back where the sensor goes. but do agree the under vlom solenoids should be replaced if you're going...
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