Maybe not the most common thing then but I'll just try to ignore it since nobody has come back yet saying "oh no, that's the *** tick of death! Sell it while you can!!" :)
Checked the serpentine and ac/vacuum pump belt, they're mint and pretty quiet. Watching my own video again, I suppose that it's possible that the sound could be stronger closer to the bellhousing. I have seen posts about cracked flexplates causing noise but I wouldn't think it would be so...
Good Morning,
Has anyone heard this on their own transmission? The transmission shifts perfectly and there's no codes but I have never heard anything like this "clock tick" from a transmission (or near there) from any vehicle I have had, including another with a 6L80 trans:
Only time will tell if this is the ultimate fix but I shoehorned some grade 8 5.5" 1/2-20 bolts in the holes and put big grade 8 washers (bolts and washers found on Granger) on each side to spread the load along with some grade 8 torque lock nuts from NAPA. Since the thread pitch is different...
Bummer...replaced the doughnuts (both sides of the y to be thorough) and didn't resolve the hiss/tick. The original doughnut and flange didn't have any leak witness marks so the search is back on. I got a careful look at the manifold on that side too and still didn't see any exhaust staining...
Unfortunately, I had already purchased some MLS manifold gaskets and bolts online already before checking them because I was pretty confident that it sounded like a broken bolt manifold to head leak...oops. I have the new manifold to Y doughnut now so hopefully I can find some time this evening...
Good Morning!
I recently purchased my '16 Tahoe LT at 77K miles and since the first test drive, I noticed a hissy/ticky exhaust leak sound on the driver's side, sounds like it's somewhere on the other side of the firewall from the brake pedal. I have checked the manifold bolts and they are...
Update 2: I put some 1.5" shorter end links on the front and that got the swaybar pretty level at ride height. The rear swaybar absolutely needs a link change/modification with this kit despite the instructions not mentioning anything about doing so.
It's a little hard to tell from the...
I dropped out the crossmember, thoroughly cleaned off all of the contact points (scraped and blasted off wax with brake cleaner) and found that while the holes are not egged out, the metal from the outer brackets is warped/pulled in a bit. The outer brackets are not flat as a result so the...
Performance comes in different forms... ;) It's definitely a mod, though of the auditory nature primarily. I'll admit that I waffled on where to post this but thought it still fit better in this subforum.
I bet it would be hard pressed to outperform an Airaid tube due to the funky transitions molded in by the factory but if someone wanted to dyno it, I'd love to see that!
What I don't like about those ones is the tube is usually metal (heat conduction), they usually have an iffy oiled air filter, and their "air box" doesn't seal out hot engine bay air as well as stock or something really good like an Airaid intake (or in G8 land, Rotofab). Didn't stop me from...
The Helmholtz chambers are on there to get the total NVH down on the engine, even at the expense of pleasant or enjoyable intake noises. The factory NVH tuning primarily tries to get the total decibels down regardless of whether they are "good" or "bad" sound. I have been lucky so far that on...
Hello! Being new to the Tahoe world and having come from a G8 GT with a Rotofab CAI, the induction silence of the Tahoe has been killing me. I don't have the budget for a good CAI at the moment but I kept on thinking-can all of the Helmholtz chambers be blocked without too much obvious hackery...
Update: I really like the "tuning" of the variable rate rear springs that Eibach uses but as I mentioned before, the front is a bit harsh. The front harshness makes more sense to me now though-despite the very hefty hard springs that the front uses, it still hits the shortened front bump stops...
That 4/5 drop looks great (in your sig)! Looks like I have lots of options for front endlink sizes so once I get there, I should be set. As for the rear though...not so much. I have seen the z shaped super short aftermarket ones but I honestly just need slightly shorter standard ones-kind of a...
Got them installed yesterday, so far, so good. I was pretty nervous that putting in lowering springs in the front (vs. drop spindles or lowering control arms) would really screw up the ability to align the front end but a local shop was able to align it pretty close to spec. The only sacrifice...
Good Morning! My 2016 2wd has had an obnoxious clunk under low speed braking and low speed/stationary steering conditions. After some searching and a tip-off from Google, I found that it was likely caused by my front crossmember moving around. I checked it out and could see the witness marks...
Good Afternoon!
I would like to switch up my tire size (diameter) on my 16 Tahoe and correct my speedo but after going through every single module on GDS2, I couldn't find an attribute to change. I found load range and tire pressure but that's it. Is there any way to do this with GDS2 or does...
Thank you, probably 2-3 inch drop in the front, 3.5-4 in the back. Still trying to figure out if I can go with lowering control arms ($$$) or just do lowering springs. I like the idea of drop spindles but don't like that they are cast iron...kind of a downgrade from factory aluminum.
Good Morning!
I am considering getting an Eibach Pro Kit lowering spring set (E10-23-030-01-22) for my (leaking) z85-equipped 16 Tahoe but I haven't found any examples of people using it on their 15-20 truck. I have had good luck with Pro Kits on other vehicles and I like the 2"F 3.5"R drop the...
At this point, I have gotten a few replies from vendors that were still advertising aluminum ones saying that the manufacturers have switched to iron. Bummer. If I had to guess, I would imagine that some people have had aluminum ones break and manufacturers freaked out and switched to cast iron.
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