I had one blow out about a year and a half ago on my 04. I had a worm clamp that I did a quick repair with and threw a gallon of water from Walmart in it. Luckily I was just around the corner from the ol Wally World.
Once I did that I drove it over to the closet advance auto and got a Dorman...
Yeah don’t blame ya lol, as for the wheel spacers and abnormal wear, I have 37’s that I bout brand new about a year and a half ago and 2in spacers and I haven’t had any uneven wear what so ever.
Nope, absolutely not. The 0.010 volt is a ghost voltage that’s exactly that, a ghost voltage. It’s not there. A bad oxygen sensor would not cause this issue and if you think it would, you could always disconnect the sensor and play trial and error. Now the root cause may have something in common...
I would double check the harness to include the connector terminals. Everything works fine sitting still but once driving it’s intermittent. That’s where I would begin. Just to cross your t’s And dot your I’s. The terminals are known for coming loose and also check for any green crustiest that...
Well the sounds in the video sound to me like the spyder gears. Which aren’t horrible expensive and a bearing/seal rebuild kit for the rear end you can get for about 180 and that’s the better quality bearings.
Would you be able to do the work yourself?0
The Evap test port has the green cap on it. Looks like a little green valve cap. It’ll be on the Black Evap line that runs to the purge valve that is on the intake manifold.
The vent valve has to be commanded closed with a scan tool. It’s the Evap vent valve solenoid I believe is gm’s name for it.
Purge valve (intake manifold side) normally closed, Evap vent (fuel tank side) normally open. So, yes unless you manually close the Evap vent with a scan tool then it’s going to be open. UNLESS it’s running a monitor in which it will close the vent and the pcm will continuously monitor the fuel...
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