Oil for 3.0

Pretty conclusive

And on the Duramax forum DemonWorks had a thread where they tore down 106,000 mile 3.0 Duramax that had 8000 mile oil change intervals on 0w-20 DexosD all it's life, and its wear surfaces bearing journals and thrust bearings were absolutely pristine.
I quit watching these videos long ago. I don't personally care. I put in what the factory recommends, I have a warranty and I'm moving on with life....

Stbentoak said:

I put in what the factory recommends, I have a warranty and I'm moving on with life....

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Same here, I run Mobil1 Dexos D 0-20w which the dealer installs

Mine gets whatever the dealership uses. I don't give it a second thought. One, I'm not going to keep whatever I own much past the OEM warranty period. And two, I don't do my own oil changes anymore. DIY oil changes stopped giving me warm fuzzies a long time ago.

I am doing a 8k change as the truck needs at the dealer.. but i am changing dealer oil at 3k to 0w30 esp. i have had a lot of autos.. and tractors with diesel.. none of them took 0w20.

I do have gm warranty on top of the 5yr/100k.

Really.. i don’t want a failed engine… more frequent changes and a little heavier oil don’t cost anything.

Pasting what I said from the AT4 place:

Changed my oil for the first time today at 3600 miles. First time doing a diesel too. I gotta say, that oil was BLACK, yall weren't kidding! Haha. Honestly no different than gas. Drained for 30 minutes, reinstalled bolt, pre filled filter, screwed it on and filled the crank case. I didn't run the motor for a second with the oil cap off that I usually do with gas engines though. I don't know if it would burp anything out and didnt want a mess. For you all with long term diesel experience, do you replace the fuel filter every time for good measure? Onboard diagnostics says its fine for quite awhile.

Used 7qts 02w-20 Mobil 1 ESP X2 DexosD and accompanying filter M1-115A. Mobil 1 is my usual weapon of choice which is why I went with it. These aren't race cars or museum pieces so I'm sure any brand is fine as most are these days.

That aluminum pan is thin to me. However there is a lot between that and the road so i don't fear it being hit. The nut comes off without a fight and actually doesn't make much of a mess surprisingly. Because of that pan I don't recommend cranking it down because the aluminum threads will strip easily judging by the feel and what the factory torqued it to as well.

I will admit its really nice to lift up the air suspension so I can craw under it easier. No, I'm not a moron, I put in jack stands incase. I have a couple of old Range Rovers on air too and I don't trust them either.

Sent off sample to Blackstone and Ill report my findings.

Fuel filter is good for at least 20 to 25K. I've put a Fumoto valve on both of mine. I run the tube right into the recycling container. Not one drop spilled and it drains it in about 10 minutes or less. Valve is tucked up under the cross arm so there's no real possibility of it getting hit by road debris etc. Honestly this vehicle is one of the easier ones I've ever had to change oil on....

I’ve always been leery of Fumuto valves. Back in early 2000s of my go fast Japanese 4 banger days people who had the claimed the leak. Not the case anymore? I guess it doesn’t really matter with 7qts it would take awhile to run into issues. I’m half tempted to grab one. Where did you get yours?

remmy said:

I’ve always been leery of Fumuto valves. Back in early 2000s of my go fast Japanese 4 banger days people who had the claimed the leak. Not the case anymore? I guess it doesn’t really matter with 7qts it would take awhile to run into issues. I’m half tempted to grab one. Where did you get yours?

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Where half the world shops.. Amazon. It's just too easy if there are any issues...