Heater Hose Replacment

I noticed coolant dripping on my AC compressor. The heater hose is very complex with a plastic t connector that developed a stress crack. I initially thought I had a bad thermostat . This is 19 year old plastic and it was really hard to see. One side goes to the firewall to the heater core, one side goes to the water pump, and one side goes to the reservoir..

Dorman has a metal "T", or "Y"... or 3/4 "K"

_GMAN_ said:

I noticed coolant dripping on my AC compressor. The heater hose is very complex with a plastic t connector that developed a stress crack. I initially thought I had a bad thermostat . This is 19 year old plastic and it was really hard to see. One side goes to the firewall to the heater core, one side goes to the water pump, and one side goes to the reservoir.. View attachment 480409View attachment 480410View attachment 480411View attachment 480412

Click to expand...

yes over a extended period of time the Y can be prone to leaking, sometimes it only leaks in a certain pressure range
R&R both T's and both hoses and call it day
these are the oem part numbers for 00-14, for future reference the same T"s are used on 15-20 but are swapped position.

AND....... While you are at it, change out ALL of the heater and radiator hoses. Most likely, they are original (manufacture date should be stamped on them), and they WILL eventually grenade.



When you change out the heater hose tees, be sure to wear gloves, as the firewall insulation is quite aggressive, and your hands will itch for days.

Sorry everyone, it was late last night when I made that post. I finished the job that same day with all new hoses. I was only down for the day. I wanted to get my Burb back up and running quickly. All new hoses installed. Some scratched up knuckles later.

_GMAN_ said:

Sorry everyone, it was late last night when I made that post. I finished the job that same day with all new hoses. I was only down for the day. I wanted to get my Burb back up and running quickly. All new hoses installed. Some scratched up knuckles later.View attachment 480434View attachment 480435View attachment 480436

Click to expand...

They have this metal for the big tee at the water pump too:

I got mine at XL Parts.

Good job. When you say, "I finished the job that same day with all new hoses", did you mean ALL radiator and heating hoses?

Nice, you eliminated the plastic heater hose end on firewall T.. One less part to break..

I can't imagine this would actually matter but.. I would move that clamp away from edge and closer to the bead..
It's just me, I can't leave well enough alone.

mikez71 said:

Nice, you eliminated the plastic heater hose end on firewall T.. One less part to break..

I can't imagine this would actually matter but.. I would move that clamp away from edge and closer to the bead..
It's just me, I can't leave well enough alone.

View attachment 480524

Click to expand...

I would have stuck with spring clamps but to each his own

I like spring clamps too, but half the reason is just aesthetics for me!
Though if I really want it clean looking, they have heatshrink for hoses too.
I don't really trust it, plus you can't re-use it.

Sometimes spring clamps can be a real pain to remove..
Lower radiator hose comes to mind, if it's not clocked right, or even if it is but there isn't space to fit pliers in there..
I have really struggled with them on a few occasions!

Also you need the right size, sometimes the newer hose is a little thinner, now the spring clamp has no tension..

So sometimes I miss the old wormscrew clamps..
Especially the ones that aren't slotted, but dimpled with a rolled edge so they don't cut into the hose.