Waterpump: wait or swap preventatively

Thanks for the part information.

I did something similar a couple of years ago to replace the leaking crimp connection on the transmission cooler line by cutting off the crimp and attaching new hose with step clamps. There's a flare on the tube end that helps lock the hose clamp in place. No leaks after two years. Your approach with the AN fittings is definitely more sophisticated but it got the job done for about $10.

It's exactly the same on that aluminum tubing above the rear axle. You can carefully remove the crimp and put a 5/8 hose on. I just like going a little bit more high-tech

My fix for the OEM crimped on transmission lines from 80,000 mi ago.




As for preventative maintenance, here's my brake job and whatnot I did for preventative maintenance, LOL

I did mine about 145k just because, I used a. millings. no clue how good it is.


this does remind me, I have a long trip coming up in September. I was going to replace fuel pump before going, but I should probably do a radiator too.

ugh always something haha

I have the rear 90deg fitting for the back laying on a shelf. got the part number off here, but never could get them off. looked around and never found any threads about those breaking and just forgot about them. it's basically only the front ones baking near the manifold during heat soak and the common unknown broke motor mounts that turn the front ones brittle and snap off.

I'll get around to it someday, but I'm pretty sure my radiator end tanks will break before that haha.

Those rear 90° fittings usually don't break. They're not getting cooked directly over the exhaust, which probably helps. It's the hoses that deteriorate.

I would recommend replacing the heater core quick connects at the firewall. I had one of those fail on my 06 Suburban and it overheated, almost to the red mark. Luckily no damage. This was about 4 years ago and I replaced with OEM.

Dorman makes metal replacements now for those. I just installed them on my 04 project Suburban, as preventative care. The original ones were very brittle. I also eliminated the quick connect that comes from the large tee joining at the coolant reservoir. It's kinda a pain because that connection is so tight once you remove the original one. I heated the hose a bit with a heat gun to get it to slip back in and used a hose clamp.

BTW, it looks like the coolant level sensor was eliminated in 05. My 04 does have the low level switch (as well as my 99 Silverado), but my 06 doesn't have it. :-(

Yeah, just replace the water pump. Make sure you use the aluminum/EPDM gaskets that mount to the block.

strutaeng said:

BTW, it looks like the coolant level sensor was eliminated in 05. My 04 does have the low level switch (as well as my 99 Silverado), but my 06 doesn't have it. :-(

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It's quite a surprising omission. My '02 had it as well, along with every other vehicle I've owned in the last 2 decades but these rigs.

Change all of what is mentioned. I learned two hard lessons. First use only OEM parts. You would think another manufactory would come up with a better idea but I'm on my third pump on my 04 6L Yukon XL. First one went at 110, 000 second (aftermarket) went at 155,000 now on my third and going strong. They both failed without warning, the backs blew out. Second warning is I am not a parts changer but I'm in this instance and I did the second time. Change the Ys at the fire wall for the heater cores. New hoses, new rad, new pulleys, and belts new thermostat. You should be good for another 100,000.

alvocado said:

I'm looking for input on a water pump replacement. I have quite a bit of long highway trips coming up and my Yukon has the original factory water pump with 222k miles on it. It is operating with no issues and I've changed coolant per the maintenance schedule since the truck was new.

I have only experienced one water pump failure on a GM truck many years ago and the pump had a slow leak develop. I swapped an Audi pump a couple of weeks ago and that unit started leaking profusely in one day; it would have never made it home on a long trip.

Question for the group: do these GM pumps tend to show signs of failure with enough warning that it's reasonably reliable for long trips or is it common for them to leave you stranded? I'm looking at 1000 miles round trip for both runs.

I hate changing parts unnecessarily but it continues to amaze me how long the factory pump is hanging in there.

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I would never replace a water pump just before a long road trip. My concern is the gasket. I've had more water pump gaskets fail than water pumps. These GM water pumps fail slowly. The seal starts to weep long before it fails. The gaskets need to cycle through some hot and cold cycles to know if they are good. My last water pump in my 2002 with L59 engine has a lifetime NAPA warranty. It started leaking at 40k. I was prepared to swap it with a NAPA warranty swap but when I pulled it out, it was obvious the gasket failed. There was plenty of sealant on the gasket but it still failed. I took the gasket supplied with the warranty water pump and installed it with the older water pump.
I do carry a gallon of coolant on road trips. My '02 has 296k and going strong.
Anybody have factory front brake pads last 296k? Mine have at least another 50k of friction material on the factory pads. The rotors are still at a machinable thickness.