i see many times, a reference to fender lip height...this can be inaccurate due to some vehicles having differing wheel arches.
measure the rocker of the vehicle. most case when LEVEL, the ass droops in appearance, and since most weight is added to rear...slightly higher is better
be cautious, less is more. and in most cases, you can trim BEHIND those liners and push them back. this helps maintain the clean finished look of the install.
many times, i see beautiful trucks destroyed in initial appearance by a poor done trim...especially how some just hack bumper corners off.
i think it looks good at that height, but the tire selection it self can have a huge effect on appearance. i generally try to find a good tread for all purposes (looks, ride and noise), but tend to favor the most aggressive sidewall appearance.
that helps give the aggressive looks and makes...
i would imagine, that already exist...i the sense that one could use a SPACER for the coil setup but place it on the bag set up...if they are coilover type and not the shock style.
in most cases, when you look at lifts, a 4" start the transition to HARD PARTS being replaced, this relocates...
everyone will jump on the debate on what hinders the parts...
personally, the upper ball joint angle is the big factor on these.
1.5" is nothing, and the silverados have the same configuration for the front coils
you need a 1-1.5" level, otherwise the tire will look punnie.
if it has air ride, you can adjustable links and get he lift from the bags, but that will firm up the ride depending on amount of lift...more air = stiffer ride
i have seen several in person, i agree, the body lines don't work as well with the two-tone.
the earlier years had much better lines, the newer egg shape just doesn't have it
i would do the thinnest bolt on specer you can get...1"
i have seen 1.5 and 2, both protrude more than i would care for. i like to mine to be covered by a STREET FLARE if needed, so no more that about 3/4" out of the fender.
agreed, i would probably push an after market arm.
i have been meaning to ask a family member, but i do believe he is personal friends with the owner ship of Hurst.
as a mall crawler, you wont see teh movement required to NEED to increased angles of the new arms. That said, you stock arm angle will be maxxed out and any reason to NEED travel could result in breaking a ball joint.
please, do not drive in y state after completing this idea..EVERYONE ants...
Curious to see what you think of the ride quality.
most dont realize how much stiffer the 5100 really is, most dont know to USE them either...they still put over a bump or dip and then complain about how stiff they are.
they do llok good, but in person...the 3.5" with the right W/T combo looks perfect. totally useable in all reagrds, but looks much more sinister.
my 17 stood out everywhere with a 2.5" and a 33.5.
i cant wait to complete this new one, just looking at wheels now.
No Clutter, all good info.
i have a 23 LT with Standard smooth ride...also wanting other features of the Z71, but never use them anyway.
i am planning on a 3" lift all around ( 3/2 at least), with a 35. i just plan to black out all the chrome a nd roll with it.
what is your location ?
i am looking to pull the trigger very soon on the following...
Ready lift 3" lift w/ arms
20x9 or very close to it wheel and tire combo, and tire choice being Toyo AT 3.
really like you set up and how it fits the rig...nicely done.
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