Here is how you do it so you won't break any of the retaining clips and makes it an easier job. And only 5 posts down.:yaoface2:
And yeah, Amazon was $26.:hmmm2::fuckyea:
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42560
Did it today and got a ton of pine needles out of it but didn't have the nasty crap in the fins like a bunch of you did.
I couldn't tell a difference but the wife said she could.
It controls your variable steering system. Common complaint is that steering wheel feels like it breaks free at higher speeds while going through a slight turn.
You only need 3 tools for this fix, a 15mm socket, a small flat head screw driver and needle nose pliers.
The socket for the bolt in the steering column.
The screw driver to release the plug connection.
The pliers to reseat the gasket on the steering column when you pull it back...
I found this list of procedures on the web
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Make an alignment mark on the upper and lower steering shafts where they connect before removal.
Remove the nut and the bolt from the upper to the lower steering shaft connection. Slide the lower shaft down...
You removed it?
Good way to get pulled over as it is a required piece of safety equipment...and fail inspection and the possibility of legal issues if you are involved in a rear end accident.
That's a better solution. The first one shouldn't be used. Remember the current also runs through the light switch. Increase current draw will increase the heat in the switch and through out the wire. Car manufactures are not know for putting in more than what's needed.
YMMV.
I started to do this when my inside handle broke too. The outside looked like a real pain in the ass because of the inside metal plate. I'll watch the video later as I still have the handle sitting in my garage.
Here is my set up
Ground wires all together with the bolt
Ran a 10G wire to the ground by the battery
Positive hook ups. HIDs to battery and 4 high to distribution block
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