Thanks for the info guys. I'm leaving the car with a company that has a much better understanding of suspension geometry. When I pulled up they instantly noticed that my drivers wheel wasn't centred in the arch, it was much closer to the rear of the car so the caster is definitely waaaaay off...
Yeah I couldn’t get off my driveway without applying my brakes sadly. I didn’t trust consider removing the caliper and zip tieing a block of wood between the pads…but then decided against it
It was a US export so steering wheel is still on the left.
I didn’t trust the specs he was pulling up for the car so I gave him this:
Told him to swap the L/R caster settings and use the 4WD toe.
What I'm not sure of is if a rear right wheel will cause a pull left? I would normally assume it would pull right, but then with 4wd diffs and the like I wouldnt know if it could somehow have a reverse effect.
What I'd like to do is remove the caliper from the wheel and take it for a test...
I should probably mention that I'm in the UK so drive on the left and probably caster settings will need to be reversed?
So...full story... I purchased the car and from day 1 it pulled left. I assumed it was just alignment so I took it to get aligned. When they got it up on the ramps everything...
Wil do, it’s going back to the alignment shop today so they can keep it all day and take it on multiple test drives.
One concern I have is that because this truck is new to me and the steering wheel looks immaculate, could someone have replaced the steering wheel at some point. Installed it a...
My new to me 07 Escalade wants to pull to the left. If I let go of the steering wheel, the wheel will turn left on its own about 20degrees. If I hold the wheel straight, the truck drives straight.
I've replaced:
Upper control arms
Shocks & Springs (they needed doing anyway)
Tie rod Ends
Sway...
For anyone else in this situation, I binned the Arnott module and soldered a 25w 3.9ohm resistor on each of the suspension strut connectors.
Not sure why arnott wouldn’t take this simple and effective approach too as it works.
Its kinda a moot point anyway tbh, as even when I upgraded all of the wiring with 0/1AWG it's still making the noise :(
I'll try and find a diagram of all the main ground points on the car and clean those up, incase something else has corroded I guess :/
I don’t think 0 would be remotely possible. Even touching my multimeter probes together has 0.1 resistance. The 0/1 awg copper wire I purchased has a resistance too.
To go from alternator to battery it’s got to go through the alu alternator housing, alternator mount, engine block, thin gauge...
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