Interesting. That would be the easiest solution. Is there anything going on at the front axle as far as engaging the “hubs” or does it all happen at the transfer case?
Thanks for the input everyone. My son and I are dropping a K5 Blazer body onto a 2000-2006 Tahoe chassis. I’m going back and forth between customizing the heck out of the wiring and ancillary systems, or just using all of the Tahoe wiring/ components and going with a custom “retro” type dash...
Is there anything that happens with the front hubs/ differential? I’m wondering what “tells” the transfer case and front axle to lock everything in 4wd.
I’m wanting to be able to select 4Hi or 4LO and have the system work as designed. I think “auto” would rely on the ABS computer, which I wasn’t planning to keep. I messaged Painless wiring also.
I’m looking at using a 2001 Tahoe as the basis for a project. Does anyone know off the top of their heads what happens when you push the “4wd” button?
I used to have a 2002, but I don’t recall if it had a BCM or any other annoying computers like the newer ones do. What I’m trying to do...
was the old thermostat actually stuck open? I’m still having a hard time imagining GM designing a cooling so efficient that the engine won’t reach operating temperature if the thermostat is stuck open. GM is famous for underengineering things, and I’ve been wrenching on them for over 40 years...
I can’t fathom the thermostat sticking “open” causing the engine to never get to temperature. I think it would get there eventually. In my case, the gauge was showing no movement whatsoever, and I drive 75-80 for half an hour each way to work. I also had hot heat in the cab, so I’m confident...
My 2015 has 174K on it now (I bought it with 120-something) and I’m not having any indication that the AFM system is in distress. I can feel it engage/ disengage on the highway. I don’t think I’d spend the money to tear into this engine to replace them, I’d probably build up a lower mile unit...
The fans running constantly and that code are a sure sign of the Coolant Temp Sensor. Do the thermostat at the same time, its about $60 worth of parts:
Thanks for the reply. WAMS really likes the Denali Clusters, apparently they’re pretty easy to program compared to the others. I’ll send them this ’18 PPV one and see what happens.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.