02 Yukon Headlight Dilemma

[400K_or_bust]

Happy Wednesday everyone...

Looking for some quick advice here. Appreciate any input you folks have. Here is where I am at currently.

I have Depo Denali projector headlight assemblies and I took my truck to a local shop and had them put in HID's. I'm told they are 55w and I paid $265 for them. Unsure on brand etc. Well I have two problems...First they don't display downrange far enough (and I cannot adjust them any higher) and I've also discovered the warm up problem while driving on a dark road in the rain the other night when I switched from my high's back to my HID lows. I was basically driving in the dark for 3-7 seconds while HID's warmed up. That's not ever going to work in my world so for now I'm done with HID's.

At this point I just want to pull the HID's and drop in some LED's and not have to deal with it for awhile. Maybe in the future I'll go the whole bixenon, 4 high, etc etc mod. For now. I just want to be able to safely drive at night which is what started this whole debacle.

I've scoured the Internet including these forums and am trying to nail down the bulbs to buy. Right now I am considering the Cougar, the Hikari, Nineo, and the Morimoto kits, although I am open to about anything under $200 for a set.

Any and all advice is welcomed and I'm ready to go buy today.

One other question. Is there a market for me to sell my HID's if I gathered some more information on what they are? They're not defective, they just don't meet my immediate needs.

Thanks!!

 

[shreksbrother]

As you already pointed out, the 4 high mod would solve the lighting issue, so why not spend the $2 to do that?

As far as the light not projecting properly, perhaps the bulbs are not mounted properly in the projector? If I paid a shop money like that for HIDs, I would demand they make it right.


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[BADRIDES]

Let me know what you decide cause I'm having the same dilemma with the lights I have.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Got these from Amazon.

See great at night.

 

[400K_or_bust]

As you already pointed out, the 4 high mod would solve the lighting issue, so why not spend the $2 to do that?

As far as the light not projecting properly, perhaps the bulbs are not mounted properly in the projector? If I paid a shop money like that for HIDs, I would demand they make it right.


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Can’t say I disagree with you 90% of the time. I’m just in immediate need of reliable and safe lighting at this point. I probably will, once spring arrives go hold the shop accountable, and see what happens. But for now, living in the rainy PNW and doing a metric ton of after dark driving on country roads, I’m not willing to put in the time to monkey with it when I can solve my problem, even temporarily, by dropping in a set of LED’s and moving on with things. I’ll have plenty of time during the summer to fart around with HID and mods and whatnot. I probably shouldn’t have started in the first place during the winter.


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[Bombsquad85]

Please tell me the 265 included the headlights.....
LEDs in the highs will fix the warm up
The only way I can think of to better the output would be to do a retrofit with some actual Hid projectors

 

[adventurenali92]

I have the exact same LED setup that @Tonyrodz posted above^ and they are perfect! They’re not like the best LEDs in the world that are like “BAM in your face bright”, but for 50 bucks for the set, they perform incredibly well! The output is good, the color of light is very nice, and they are complete plug and play to the stock wiring! I currently have a set of spyder Denali projector heads on my 2006, and the Vouke LEDs in the projector puts out really good light. And not once have I been flashed with high beams, despite how bright they are. You should check them out. I got mine eBay for $50 for the set. I also have the Vouke LEDs with a little higher output in my high beams and they are great as well.

 

[400K_or_bust]

Please tell me the 265 included the headlights.....

I suppose I COULD tell you that. However, I would be lying. $200 for the bulbs, ballasts, wiring, etc. and $65 for labor. I kinda figured out on my own after a week or so that I may have overpaid...But eh...is what it is and I also don't know the brand or the quality of hardware used either.

I will be going back to the shop come spring time to let them know the setup did not meet my expectations. How they choose to handle my concerns will be the true testament in how I view the $265 I spent. If they work with me to help reach my goal with the lights then I'll consider it money well spent. If not, well it's a lesson and one that I only have to learn once.

LEDs in the highs will fix the warm up

How so? Would you mind explaining how LED's in the highs will reduce the warmup on the HID lows? Sorry, I just don't quite understand how that works.

 

[adventurenali92]

In my experience, If you wait til the spring they more then likely won’t do anything about. More than likely they will say well if you had an issue with the setup you should have brought it back after we installed it. Why wouldn’t you go back now instead of waiting?!

 

[400K_or_bust]

I have the exact same LED setup that @Tonyrodz posted above^ and they are perfect! They’re not like the best LEDs in the world that are like “BAM in your face bright”, but for 50 bucks for the set, they perform incredibly well! The output is good, the color of light is very nice, and they are complete plug and play to the stock wiring! I currently have a set of spyder Denali projector heads on my 2006, and the Vouke LEDs in the projector puts out really good light. And not once have I been flashed with high beams, despite how bright they are. You should check them out. I got mine eBay for $50 for the set. I also have the Vouke LEDs with a little higher output in my high beams and they are great as well.

@Bigbeardenali1992 and @Tonyrodz

BAM!!! This was precisely the info I was looking for!! I wicked appreciate it. Going off to Jeff Bezos' cash cow now to go grab a set.

 

[400K_or_bust]

Why wouldn’t you go back now instead of waiting?!

Valid point and makes sense. My reasoning is I really don't have time to screw around with this at the moment. I mean it's possible I walk in, they fall all over themselves to make things right, and I walk out in 2 hours happy as a clam. OTOH, it's also possible that it gets worse or nothing happens at all.

I'm trying to be proactive. I suppose now that I've ordered the LED's I can pop them in and then go talk to them since I have a fall back plan. I just can't do what I need to do on a daily basis right now with the lighting situation as it is.

Worse comes to worse, if they are complete asses about it and they will not take the parts back reasonably or fix it, I'll just go to my credit card company and charge back the equipment and hand the lights back to them. I seriously doubt it would come to that. The shop had a very good reputation on various social media and review sites. Who knows? I'm not overly worried about it. I just want to be able to drive safely.

 

[adventurenali92]

Valid point and makes sense. My reasoning is I really don't have time to screw around with this at the moment. I mean it's possible I walk in, they fall all over themselves to make things right, and I walk out in 2 hours happy as a clam. OTOH, it's also possible that it gets worse or nothing happens at all.

I'm trying to be proactive. I suppose now that I've ordered the LED's I can pop them in and then go talk to them since I have a fall back plan. I just can't do what I need to do on a daily basis right now with the lighting situation as it is.

Worse comes to worse, if they are complete asses about it and they will not take the parts back reasonably or fix it, I'll just go to my credit card company and charge back the equipment and hand the lights back to them. I seriously doubt it would come to that. The shop had a very good reputation on various social media and review sites. Who knows? I'm not overly worried about it. I just want to be able to drive safely.

I get being pressed for time. I’m the same way as I have a full time business as well as a full time winter job on the slopes. But when it comes to my Denali, I want it done right and I want it done right now haha. Because if it’s not done right it’ll irritate me even more. Haha. So getting it right in good timing is a key for me.

 

[BADRIDES]

I have the exact same LED setup that @Tonyrodz posted above^ and they are perfect! They’re not like the best LEDs in the world that are like “BAM in your face bright”, but for 50 bucks for the set, they perform incredibly well! The output is good, the color of light is very nice, and they are complete plug and play to the stock wiring! I currently have a set of spyder Denali projector heads on my 2006, and the Vouke LEDs in the projector puts out really good light. And not once have I been flashed with high beams, despite how bright they are. You should check them out. I got mine eBay for $50 for the set. I also have the Vouke LEDs with a little higher output in my high beams and they are great as well.

I think Tonyrodz has me talked into getting the same set-up that you both have.

 

[Bombsquad85]

I suppose I COULD tell you that. However, I would be lying. $200 for the bulbs, ballasts, wiring, etc. and $65 for labor. I kinda figured out on my own after a week or so that I may have overpaid...But eh...is what it is and I also don't know the brand or the quality of hardware used either.

I will be going back to the shop come spring time to let them know the setup did not meet my expectations. How they choose to handle my concerns will be the true testament in how I view the $265 I spent. If they work with me to help reach my goal with the lights then I'll consider it money well spent. If not, well it's a lesson and one that I only have to learn once.



How so? Would you mind explaining how LED's in the highs will reduce the warmup on the HID lows? Sorry, I just don't quite understand how that works.

I wasn't trying to be a dick man. Thats just a ton of money for plug and play. I wpuld go back to them asap.

As for LEDs they don't need to warm up like hids do. Once you hit the highs they are at max brightness. Just like LED bulbs you have elsewhere.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Valid point and makes sense. My reasoning is I really don't have time to screw around with this at the moment. I mean it's possible I walk in, they fall all over themselves to make things right, and I walk out in 2 hours happy as a clam. OTOH, it's also possible that it gets worse or nothing happens at all.

I'm trying to be proactive. I suppose now that I've ordered the LED's I can pop them in and then go talk to them since I have a fall back plan. I just can't do what I need to do on a daily basis right now with the lighting situation as it is.

Worse comes to worse, if they are complete asses about it and they will not take the parts back reasonably or fix it, I'll just go to my credit card company and charge back the equipment and hand the lights back to them. I seriously doubt it would come to that. The shop had a very good reputation on various social media and review sites. Who knows? I'm not overly worried about it. I just want to be able to drive safely.

At least give them a call so they know you're not happy with them. Now they have a heads up and won't be surprised when you walk in a few months later telling them you aren't happy with your purchase. That's what I'd do.

 

[400K_or_bust]

I wasn't trying to be a dick man. Thats just a ton of money for plug and play. I wpuld go back to them asap.

As for LEDs they don't need to warm up like hids do. Once you hit the highs they are at max brightness. Just like LED bulbs you have elsewhere.

Lol. Nah, you're fine. I didn't take it that way at all. My setup currently is exact opposite of this. My highs are halogens and my lows are HID. So basically I would have the brights on for a period of time, until oncoming traffic appeared and when I hit my lows damn near complete darkness for what seemed like forever but was probably 4-7 seconds. FWIW I bothered to look up what I think I purchased: Hylux 35w ballast with Diode Dynamics CNLight 9005 bulbs. So who knows?

 

[400K_or_bust]

I get being pressed for time. I’m the same way as I have a full time business

Yup...I'm self employed as well so time is always at a huge premium.

At least give them a call so they know you're not happy with them.

Oh absolutely. I hope I didn't come across as wanting to be an ******* to the shop. I'll give them every single opportunity to address the situation. And to be honest, it could entirely be my perception as I have never owned HID's before so it might just be a simple adjustment that would solve my issue of the lights not displaying enough road in front of me. But I can't hang with the no light for several seconds as I transition from my hi beams back to the HID lows. For now I'll just throw some LED's in there and when I have some more time I'll likely go bixenon.

 

[Bombsquad85]

Lol. Nah, you're fine. I didn't take it that way at all. My setup currently is exact opposite of this. My highs are halogens and my lows are HID. So basically I would have the brights on for a period of time, until oncoming traffic appeared and when I hit my lows damn near complete darkness for what seemed like forever but was probably 4-7 seconds. FWIW I bothered to look up what I think I purchased: Hylux 35w ballast with Diode Dynamics CNLight 9005 bulbs. So who knows?

Do you remember what temperature bulbs you got. For best output stick to 4300 or 5000k any higher than that you get more color but sacrifice output

 

[400K_or_bust]

Do you remember what temperature bulbs you got.

They are either right at 5K or a tick over. The difference in color output contrasted to my halogen's is very noticeable. They are pretty white with maybe a hint of blue I pick up on

 

[mikeseay]

Let me know what you decide cause I'm having the same dilemma with the lights I have.

I installed HIDs and Had the same issue, when to Painless website and bought the wiring kit to have all 4 lights on when on high, not in the dark 3-4 seconds anymore. They will burn the leaves off of trees at a hundred yards!