What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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cmatt

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So I finally made it out and took a picture of how my parking brake cable is routed after leaving the firewall. Is this the norm for anyone with this year/body style?

View attachment 262436

(2011 Yukon Denali 6.2l)
I just had the wheel well liners out of my 2012 Suburban while changing motor mounts. My cable is ran the same as yours. I think routing through those holes might cause binding.

However, I don’t have a loose oxygen sensor sitting in there like yours, lol.


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Melling has some great information as well. That article by Summit isn’t really helpful for guys trying to correct an oil situation in a worn engine. Here’s a quick explanation on pressure vs flow that puts it in an easy to understand comparison. Melling has some videos and other articles that can help a person to decide on an oil pump. https://www.melling.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/pressure-vs-flow.pdf
Years ago when I built the motor that's in my 5.0 mustang I used a high volume oil pump. I have a Vortech supercharger that has engine oil plumbed to it for lubrication, and also use a 7qt baffled pan (2qts more than OE). The baffled pan keeps the oil near the pickup during spirited driving (hard launches, cornering, heavy braking). Oil pressure has been fine.

In most cases, the high volume is all that's needed, not the high pressure



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alpha_omega

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So on 2007 Denali it runs along the side of the frame...

View attachment 262478

Rustyyy! :confused:

Mine runs along the frame on the drivers side as well (as most vehicles do), my question was related to the initial “drop” it makes immediately after leaving the firewall. Is your cable routed through the body mount holes next to/below the firewall, just before the bend where it runs along the frame?
I should have been more specific with the routing question, so my apologies for that one.
 

alpha_omega

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I just had the wheel well liners out of my 2012 Suburban while changing motor mounts. My cable is ran the same as yours. I think routing through those holes might cause binding.

However, I don’t have a loose oxygen sensor sitting in there like yours, lol.


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Haha! Thanks. I don’t normally drive around with o2 sensors unscrewed, unplugged and hanging off the fender. I’m about to replace the tranny pan with a B&M, in addition to just having replaced the manifold after finding broken bolts and cracked sections (which they now are making relief cuts in to help prevent/eliminate the cracked manifold issue).
So what the hell is that double hole for? I ask because the cable has a protective coating in that area, but the frame is digging into it regardless due to either poor welding, grinding or QC. Since I need to unhook the cable to grind that edge down, I figured if it were supposed to be routed through that mount for some reason I would do so before hooking it back up. Thanks for the reply though.
 

Rocket Man

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Last night I removed the gas tank, charcoal canister and vent valve. Today I'm blowing out all the lines back and forth and I hope to have it finished by tonight. This job sucks on a lowered vehicle!
Working underneath any vehicle sucks unless you have a lift. It’s amazing how awkward it is to lay on your back and work overhead.
 

Austinite

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Well I had a set of the 2015 style taillights in my Amazon list for a year or so because I was on the fence about em...Then I saw a couple of pics of some on a lifted black Tahoe somewhere and it sold me. I know they're not for everyone, but I think I might keep em. I also used some VViViD Air-Tint to do my 3rd brake light so it would match a little better.

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