Steering Resistance - What to Replace?

[claustralia]

07 Yukon 5.3 SLT 300k miles

Hi all,

I'm attempting to tackle my steering issue but wanted to see if any others have experienced anything similar before I start firing the parts cannon at it.

At its core, I have very little steering resistance. You get used to it after driving for a while but the second I go to one of my other cars, its extremely noticeable. While I don't have very much play in the steering wheel and there is no drift while driving, when I go to make a turn the wheel has almost no resistance to return it back to center. After extensive research, almost everyone claims this is related to alignment. I have had 2 alignments post my front suspension rebuild without any improvement. Since I have replaced upper/lower intermediate steering shaft, UCA/LCA, front struts/springs, inner/outer tie rods, sway bar links/bushings all that is really left is the power steering pump and rack and pinion. I've also read that the steering angle sensor might be a culprit but I have no DTCs that would indicate an error.

While the alignment shop seems to think it is the rack I wanted to get some input before dropping the $500. There are no leaks on the rack but there is maybe a quarter inch of play of it moving in/out when I jack up the front and move a tire left/right. I did have to replace the power steering high pressure hose, due to a leak, which also could've caused an issue with the pump but it still feels relatively smooth (no whine) when I need to make a turn...its purely the lack of steering resistance to bring the wheel back to center. I don't believe the pump plays a role in providing the steering resistance/return to center but maybe I'm wrong.

If you were me, what would you replace next to try and resolve this issue or is there additional testing I can conduct to narrow this down?

Thanks!!

 

[Marky Dissod]

... when I go to make a turn the wheel has almost no resistance to return it back to center.
After extensive research, almost everyone claims this is related to alignment ...
... still feels relatively smooth (no whine) when I need to make a turn ... its purely the lack of steering resistance to bring the wheel back to center.

Think this has to do with caster.
More +caster = quicker self return to (pretty much more or less) straight ahead (ish) with less help from driver.
Less +caster = you'll do more 'unsteering' to get straight ahead, it'll straighten itself less

Think your '07 is a GMT922?
On my GMT821 / '02 Tahoe (as well as all my previous Caprices-9C1), I always asked for my alignments to be biased as follows:
MAX POSITIVE CASTER PHYSICALLY POSSIBLE
within OE specs but TOE IN, no toe out
within OE specs but NEGATIVE CAMBER, no positive camber.

I don't know GMT900 rack&pinion alignment specs but I'd bet the principles are similar.

 

[Trey Hardy]

07 Yukon 5.3 SLT 300k miles

Hi all,

I'm attempting to tackle my steering issue but wanted to see if any others have experienced anything similar before I start firing the parts cannon at it.

At its core, I have very little steering resistance. You get used to it after driving for a while but the second I go to one of my other cars, its extremely noticeable. While I don't have very much play in the steering wheel and there is no drift while driving, when I go to make a turn the wheel has almost no resistance to return it back to center. After extensive research, almost everyone claims this is related to alignment. I have had 2 alignments post my front suspension rebuild without any improvement. Since I have replaced upper/lower intermediate steering shaft, UCA/LCA, front struts/springs, inner/outer tie rods, sway bar links/bushings all that is really left is the power steering pump and rack and pinion. I've also read that the steering angle sensor might be a culprit but I have no DTCs that would indicate an error.

While the alignment shop seems to think it is the rack I wanted to get some input before dropping the $500. There are no leaks on the rack but there is maybe a quarter inch of play of it moving in/out when I jack up the front and move a tire left/right. I did have to replace the power steering high pressure hose, due to a leak, which also could've caused an issue with the pump but it still feels relatively smooth (no whine) when I need to make a turn...its purely the lack of steering resistance to bring the wheel back to center. I don't believe the pump plays a role in providing the steering resistance/return to center but maybe I'm wrong.

If you were me, what would you replace next to try and resolve this issue or is there additional testing I can conduct to narrow this down?

Thanks!!

Dirt king fabrication makes locking alignment cam plates so you can lock your alignment in without worry of it sliding out of place or coming loose knocking the alignment out.
Pretty much once your front end is replaced and you put these plates on for your alignment you’ll never have to have another alignment again unless you got to go back into the front end for something like tie rods etc

I’d lean towards the rack but it that’s the only issue your having id wait until the seals went bad and replace it then. Mine seeps some at full lock but never enough to make a difference or drain the fluid.
Mines got a lil over 400,000 miles on it and is original.
My Tahoes steering is very smooth and easy with no resistance where my Silverado has a lil resistance and has this steering wheel shake at 50-60 I’ve been needing to trace out and fix

 

[j91z28d1]

do you have a print out of your before and after alignment? can you upload there?

very much sounds like caster, be nice to look at what you have. it's my experience that shops like to not do what they say they did during alignments. as in not adjust anything and tell you they did. they mainly do this my conveniently not giving you a before print out to compare to the after. setting the toe only so it doesn't wear tires out quickly and get it off the rack. it pays nothing and can be a hassle to do a good one. most techs smart enough to do a good alignment would be much happier doing other work in the shop leaving that to the noobs.


does the rack have a half inch of in and out movement when you move the wheel by hand that doesn't move the steering wheel? if you can't do that while watching the steering shaft coming out of the rack. there should be basically not moment in the rack that doesn't turn the steering wheel. shaft input

 

[claustralia]

Think this has to do with caster.
More +caster = quicker self return to (pretty much more or less) straight ahead (ish) with less help from driver.
Less +caster = you'll do more 'unsteering' to get straight ahead, it'll straighten itself less

Think your '07 is a GMT922?
On my GMT821 / '02 Tahoe (as well as all my previous Caprices-9C1), I always asked for my alignments to be biased as follows:
MAX POSITIVE CASTER PHYSICALLY POSSIBLE
within OE specs but TOE IN, no toe out
within OE specs but NEGATIVE CAMBER, no positive camber.

I don't know GMT900 rack&pinion alignment specs but I'd bet the principles are similar.

Very possible its still the alignment, I appreciate the messaging you give to the shops...I'll post specs below

Dirt king fabrication makes locking alignment cam plates so you can lock your alignment in without worry of it sliding out of place or coming loose knocking the alignment out.
Pretty much once your front end is replaced and you put these plates on for your alignment you’ll never have to have another alignment again unless you got to go back into the front end for something like tie rods etc

I’d lean towards the rack but it that’s the only issue your having id wait until the seals went bad and replace it then. Mine seeps some at full lock but never enough to make a difference or drain the fluid.
Mines got a lil over 400,000 miles on it and is original.
My Tahoes steering is very smooth and easy with no resistance where my Silverado has a lil resistance and has this steering wheel shake at 50-60 I’ve been needing to trace out and fix

Good to know on the alignment pin!

do you have a print out of your before and after alignment? can you upload there?

very much sounds like caster, be nice to look at what you have. it's my experience that shops like to not do what they say they did during alignments. as in not adjust anything and tell you they did. they mainly do this my conveniently not giving you a before print out to compare to the after. setting the toe only so it doesn't wear tires out quickly and get it off the rack. it pays nothing and can be a hassle to do a good one. most techs smart enough to do a good alignment would be much happier doing other work in the shop leaving that to the noobs.


does the rack have a half inch of in and out movement when you move the wheel by hand that doesn't move the steering wheel? if you can't do that while watching the steering shaft coming out of the rack. there should be basically not moment in the rack that doesn't turn the steering wheel. shaft input

I do have the images, shoudve put that on my first post but here they are:

1st align (their printer was down):

2nd align:


Unsure if the steering wheel moves when I have the front lifted and play with the tire. I just feel it push in and out.

I had to drive my 01 Sierra and my wifes Pilot over the weekend and just the amount of force you are fighting against to turn is so much different which makes me think it might be pressure related (pump/rack). There is just reset of the wheel to bring it back to center automatically, I'm always having to bring it back to center but then it stays there at least...

maybe the alignment specs will help, thanks again!

 

[j91z28d1]

just for reference here's my last after.





I don't know if this is still a thing but older gm ps pumps had a orifice where the high pressure hose screws into the pump that would set the pressure and the steering effort. I don't know if that's still a thing in these newer trucks but just throwing that out there.

 

[claustralia]

According to alldata, I believe youre referring to the flow control valve which I have seen pop up a few times during my research. I think I'd just replace the whole pump though. I know i should probably replace all the components pump/rack/cooler (hoses are already new), id just rather not drop all the money

 

[j91z28d1]

you know it might be called a veritable control valve these days, since it's probably electronic so it can change the assist from parking lot to interstate.. back in the day it was just a different size hole lol.

I'm still leaning towards that caster, it looks very low to me. but I also have a odd ball truck with a electric rack lol. so others will know more about the hydraulic system.

I don't blame you for not wanting to drop the cash, you've already spent more than I'd want to on what's basically an annoyance compared to all the other things these trucks need replaced.

 

[petethepug]

Steering doesn't return to center, why? - Chevy Message Forum - Restoration and Repair Help

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[claustralia]

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View attachment 422994

Steering doesn't return to center, why? - Chevy Message Forum - Restoration and Repair Help

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Interesting! Thanks for sharing. That sounds like more evidence for the rack…