Shaking above 50mph

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mattbta

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Did you check your Idler and Pitman arm for looseness? Tie rods too?
Tie rods are new within the year. Pitman/Idler, within 2 years - on the third set of those. Everyone that's looked at it claims there's no slop.
 

rockola1971

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Tie rods are new within the year. Pitman/Idler, within 2 years - on the third set of those. Everyone that's looked at it claims there's no slop.
Have you been greasing them? Jack frontend up and get weight off wheels and push tire inward and outward toward the front of vehicle and look at idler. Is it bouncing up and down as you do it? How much deflection?
 
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Rocket Man

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I've replaced everything 10 k miles ago except hubs so I'm hoping that's it.
 
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iamdub

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Wouldn't warped rotors just make it shake when braking? Is it doing it while driving too?

If they're warped (or out-of-true from deposits) enough, then they can be off-balance at higher speeds. I had a shake that got better after having the tires balanced, but was almost eliminated after new brakes went on.
 

Rocket Man

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If they're warped (or out-of-true from deposits) enough, then they can be off-balance at higher speeds. I had a shake that got better after having the tires balanced, but was almost eliminated after new brakes went on.
Something to keep in mind. My rotors are only a year old but they might have gotten warped, who knows.
 

iamdub

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Something to keep in mind. My rotors are only a year old but they might have gotten warped, who knows.

My new ones were installed a few days before a trip to Tampa, Florida. I got less than 1,000 miles out of mine before they were warped again, and 700+ of those miles were highway miles with no braking. The only time I ever got on the brakes "hard" was when I was bedding them in the night I installed them. I first noticed it when easing to a stop at a red light in Florida and they were perfectly smooth prior to that.:mad:
 

rockola1971

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Which rotors did you guys use? Those cheap made in china ones warp very easily. Our chassis EAT up idler arms especially if there is something else wrong in the steering/suspension setup. How are your bushings? Upper/Lower control arms AND stabilizer bushings? Link kit? One busted?
 

mattbta

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I'll check the idler soon. It's about two years old. Rotors are Wagner. End links/Sway bushings are energy suspension (6 months on the truck) and UCA's are new. LCA bushings are stock - 12 years old.
 
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rockola1971

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I'll check the idler soon. It's about two years old. Rotors are Wagner. End links are energy suspension (6 months on the truck) and UCA's are new. LCA bushings are stock - 12 years old.
Unless the frame is bent or a tire is bad, youve got something wrong on the front end. I bet its the idler arm, especially if you travel down rough roads or offroad a fair amount. Check steering play at the steering shaft AND at the steering gearbox. The way to check the gearbox is center steering wheel and have someone turn it back and forth just a couple inches where there is play before getting taught. Then look down at the steering gearbox input shaft. If the the slack is there you will see the steering shaft (from steering wheel) move before the input shaft does. If the slack is in the gearbox then you will see the steering shaft move back and forth (attached to input shaft of gearbox) and the front end isnt moving so there is play inside the gearbox. There is an adjuster on top of the gear box to take some of the lash out. The adjustment is very fine, watch a video on it BEFORE you go there if you have to.
 

Big Mama

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Warped rotors on braking and replace all 4. You can get drilled and slotted with new ceramic pads under &200. Easy to put on but change your break fluid too. Shaking over 50 mph is generally tire out of balance get all 4 checked. I have an NNBS and didn't know what it meant so you're ok.
 

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