Rumble noise when decelerating only

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Just Fishing

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"Heavy brakes"
I'm thinking you figured it out with the wheel bearings.
Sometimes narrowing down the location of a sound can be challenging.

I also had some experience with worn out bearings in the rear end.
over a certain speed, vibrations.
say over 70 or 80mph.

I sorta got used to it. :jester:

Pinion seal and the axle seals were leaking.
turned into a near full rebuild with the finest napa supplied non china bearings and seals.
Bearing cages were super thin, and sharp like razor blades.
I don't think it had long before it would have grenade'd.

I was amazed how smooth my S10 drove afterwards. :cool:
Reminded me how it drove when I first got it with 30 or 40k on it.

Later i started getting the same thing in the front end.
Inspection found that the seals where the CV enters the xfer case were leaking.
And when picking up the cv, tons of slop.
I did a quick and dirty bearing and bushings from the outside.
fixed it up real nice.
I still wonder how bad that front differential is... :rolleyes:

I would have suggested try not using the breaks and try downshifting.
if a 6 speed with tow mode, then use that with the manual gear selection buttons while going down a hill.

Narrow down where the sound is coming from.
Could go offroad with 4x4 with the same mindset turned on to check the front drivetrain.

But only doing it with brakes/braking makes me think rotor, pad, and the caliper pins (might be seized).

Then there are the wheel bearings.
Slop would mean the caliper pins are working overtime.

would get worse if they finally started sticking.


So, where I'm headed
Check the caliper pins and brakes while you're doing the front wheel bearings.
Make sure the pins slide smoothly and the boots are in good condition.

Heck, while your there.
Have some local auto parts store turn your rotors and slap on some new pads.

My local autozone does it pretty cheaply.
If you buy the pads there, get the best ones they have.
Lifetime warranty, no questions asked!

:cheers:
 
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Kodiak Yukon

Kodiak Yukon

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Great point. I love actually working on brakes system so easy and yet just not something people pay attention too enough. I replaced al calipers recently. About 6 months ago and I will give them a look. Also resurfacing the rotors is a good idea. The back ones are new but didn’t replace the front ones. Thanks for the insight on your issue. I will give a detailed look at everything.
 
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Kodiak Yukon

Kodiak Yukon

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Alright. Problem is still there. I just had time to replace one of the wheel bearing sides today and well. Noise is still there. Everything else looked great while I was under there. Noise still goes away in a right hand turn. Left wheel bearing is now new. Hoping to get the right side done soon. Please send advice if you have it.
 

Doubeleive

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Alright. Problem is still there. I just had time to replace one of the wheel bearing sides today and well. Noise is still there. Everything else looked great while I was under there. Noise still goes away in a right hand turn. Left wheel bearing is now new. Hoping to get the right side done soon. Please send advice if you have it.
If it's still there after replacing the other hub then I would proceed to checking the rear axle bearings and/or pinion bearing. Also be sure the rear panhard bar is good, check the bushings and be sure the bolts are tight. The rear axles can move a TINY bit, worn bearings will make noise and allow a little more play than normal and hence noise when turning one way or even going straight, you might try driving along a barrier wall with the windows down and see if the noise is more prominent on side or the other. take the rear wheels off and inspect around the rear rotors and calipers/axle area for grease leaking out that is also a indicator of bad rear axle bearings. grease leaking around the pinion is also a sign of bad pinion. I can't remember off-hand if noise from the pinion being bad is acceleration or deceleration.
 
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Kodiak Yukon

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Alright all. Still at it.

Everything I have done.

New wheel bearing assembly both sides

New u joints in drive shaft

New CV axels and shock struts

New brake rotors, pads and calibers.

I still have a vibration. Vibration is there when going down a hill not under acceleration but the vehicle is speeding up. Vibration is felt when now pedals are touches. Vibration is felt when slowing down but goes away or noticeably under 15. Vibration doesn’t start below 15 MPH. Vibration is not felt when gas pedal is applied and speed is increasing. Felt is all other options.

When gas pedal applied and in neutral the vibration is felt.

Doesn’t matter if I am in 4WD or 2WD. Symptoms don’t change.

Vibration is felt mainly under the drives floor board. Not felt in steering wheel or seat.

Let me know where I should focus next please.
 

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Have you checked the motor mounts? Open the hood and do a brake torque in forward and reverse to see if the engine jumps up in one direction or the other. You'll know if it's bad because it will jump up about an inch
 
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Kodiak Yukon

Kodiak Yukon

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Have you checked the motor mounts? Open the hood and do a brake torque in forward and reverse to see if the engine jumps up in one direction or the other. You'll know if it's bad because it will jump up about an inch

I have and there isn’t much movement. I don’t feel like it could be a motor mount since the noise is still there when in neutral and I apply the gas and rev the rpm’s. Vibration is still there. Correct me please if that doesn’t rule it out.

However maybe a different mount?

This has been going on too long getting kind of frustrated with it honestly.

The noise frequency does change at speeds. Smooths out at high speeds.
 
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Kodiak Yukon

Kodiak Yukon

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I have also balanced and rotated the tires.

I will let you all know what happens next.
 
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89Suburban

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What is the speed of the vibration? Wheel speed? Driveline speed? Engine speed? Is it only on certain gears? Decel vibration just makes ring and pinion pop into my head for some reason. I feel your frustration for sure. I as thinking CV joint also until you mentioned you replaced it. Don't ignore the motor mount. Huge difference when replaced with a new one. Going away when turning seems to be a possible clue. Did you check for any play in the rear axle shafts? Both in and out and up and down? Also very hard to see the condition of the spider gears if you have a limited slip diff.
 
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Kodiak Yukon

Kodiak Yukon

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What is the speed of the vibration? Wheel speed? Driveline speed? Engine speed? Is it only on certain gears? Decel vibration just makes ring and pinion pop into my head for some reason. I feel your frustration for sure. I as thinking CV joint also until you mentioned you replaced it. Don't ignore the motor mount. Huge difference when replaced with a new one. Going away when turning seems to be a possible clue. Did you check for any play in the rear axle shafts? Both in and out and up and down? Also very hard to see the condition of the spider gears if you have a limited slip diff.

I have not played with anything in the rear end. I have done work back there a few years ago however nothing recent.

I am focused up front bc the vibration that is felt in the floor boards is predominantly only in the driver floor board. Not felt anywhere else in the car. I have sat in all seats. But heard throughout the car.

The speed of the vibration feels to be a 1:1 meaning the same speed of a tire revolution. So when speed increases the vibration is faster and smooths but never goes away.

Thank you so much for your assistance tonight.

I even bought chassis ears but still haven’t been able to pin point it. Need to send more time with those though. Only did enough to just play with it.
 

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