Gonna replace front and rear shocks tomorrow. Any tips, things to watch out for, things to avoid. Looks pretty straight forward. Will be doing it on the ground. Will I need to jack the axle up in addition to jacking the vehicle. I watched don video where the guy loosened the stabilizer end links on front while replace entire strut assembly, is this necessary?
Replacing shocks tomorrow
- Thread starter rmaker
- Start date
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intheburbs
Full Access Member
Hit the bolts tonight with PB Blaster/Kroil/etc.
Shouldn't need to lower sway bar links. Front struts just basically slip right out. Easy-peasy. Rears are easy too, the upper fasteners can be a bit tricky. Just might need a jack to help position it in place one removed.
wjburken
Supporting Member
Double check the rear ABS sensor harness connections when you’re done. They have a habit of coming loose and giving an error message.
ya the rear abs harness sits right where the upper bolt goes thru on the rear shocks.
on the rear you may want to put the frame on stands and then use a jack under the pumpkin so you can lift and lower the axle as needed
with the front off the ground the sway bar tension is released.
with the rear off the ground the sway tension is applied
if you have the electronic shocks then be sure the front connector on the top is inserted properly, it has a little clip that comes off to remove them and then locks back on when you put the harness back on. the rears are easier.
on the rear you may want to put the frame on stands and then use a jack under the pumpkin so you can lift and lower the axle as needed
with the front off the ground the sway bar tension is released.
with the rear off the ground the sway tension is applied
if you have the electronic shocks then be sure the front connector on the top is inserted properly, it has a little clip that comes off to remove them and then locks back on when you put the harness back on. the rears are easier.
Last edited:
New shocks all around- 
Some observations.
Started with the front strut assemblies which were actually easier than the rears. In nearly every video I watched they removed the front strut top nuts through the wheel well with a ratcheting wrench or similar, which is what I did on the first one. Towards the end of first one I realized you can reach the nuts easily from above with regular rachet and torque wrench.
I used the Monroe quick struts on the front (I know, "I'll hate em/they suck"). They came with bolts and nuts for the bottom and nuts for the top studs. The top stud nuts were dainty compared to stock. On the lower end I reused the clip nuts from the original strut and not the nuts provided. I did end up loosening the stabilizer end links to get a lil extra drop when inserting the new assembly. Lining up the lower bolts was the most tedious part, and I was happy to have a buddy helping me out.
The rears were a lil bit more of a pita because getting a wrench on the top inside bolts is a lil challenging. I used the AC Delco on the rear. The rear shocks were bad for sure took no effort to push them down as compared to the new one.
Took it for a highway test drive and it's much better. Will see how she does next weekend when we take our daughter back to college.
Overall wasn't bad, hotter than hell though.
Thanks for all the input/advice!
Some observations.
Started with the front strut assemblies which were actually easier than the rears. In nearly every video I watched they removed the front strut top nuts through the wheel well with a ratcheting wrench or similar, which is what I did on the first one. Towards the end of first one I realized you can reach the nuts easily from above with regular rachet and torque wrench.
I used the Monroe quick struts on the front (I know, "I'll hate em/they suck"). They came with bolts and nuts for the bottom and nuts for the top studs. The top stud nuts were dainty compared to stock. On the lower end I reused the clip nuts from the original strut and not the nuts provided. I did end up loosening the stabilizer end links to get a lil extra drop when inserting the new assembly. Lining up the lower bolts was the most tedious part, and I was happy to have a buddy helping me out.
The rears were a lil bit more of a pita because getting a wrench on the top inside bolts is a lil challenging. I used the AC Delco on the rear. The rear shocks were bad for sure took no effort to push them down as compared to the new one.
Took it for a highway test drive and it's much better. Will see how she does next weekend when we take our daughter back to college.
Overall wasn't bad, hotter than hell though.
Thanks for all the input/advice!
swathdiver
Full Access Member
It'll take a couple hundred miles to wear in, the road trip will be perfect for it. Be safe!
So I took in to get an alignment today, after installing the new shocks. Asked them to look the suspension over. They called me up and said there's about a half inch of play in the lower ball joints. Told em to go ahead and replace em, so... Add new lower ball joints to the list $$. I wasn't shocked, only thing that bugs me a lil is I had it in the same shop a month or so ago for alignment after inners/outer and hubs install and no mention of the ball joints and my other mechanic who looked it over in May/June recommended inners/outers and hubs but no ball joints. Whatever.
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