Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)

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randeez

randeez

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Drive over well, i think the only casualty is the intercooler pump. It hangs right above where the resonator is all the way back by the tail pipe
Never had problems with before and have driven just as far before...but I'm thinking with weight of trailer it made exhaust closer to it or the wiring. Hopefully just the wiring I can fix that pretty quick and strap it up higher
 
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randeez

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ordered a new expansion valve and dryer for the chiller
there was a little bit of junk on the orifice valve when i changed it out - thinking the txv may also have some junk in it and chiller doesnt seem to be working so well.
ordered another bmw pump for the intercooler. it was a little stinky but i was going full blast on it for a while and i dont know...worked fine on the way home dont want to rely on it going at any moment
 

mzr2240

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I'm sure it's somewhere in the thread, but what was your solution for the axles on the 9.25 diff?
 
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randeez

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I'm sure it's somewhere in the thread, but what was your solution for the axles on the 9.25 diff?

at stock height or lowered (if i was doing it all over) i would prob still grab oem axles and swap the outer cv joint needed (33spline pre-10 2500) onto the 8bolt inner joint/shaft(2010+ 2500) i think the actual shafts are longer, youd still need a little cv axle spacer. i used cognito for them .5 or .8 i dont remember what ended up being the correct ones.
swapping the inner is easier and cheaper (cause you can do after market) but they are too short and need a longer spacer (or stacked)
problem is you need to buy 4 total axles, aftermarket the cv axles dont come off and the inner tripod joint is hit or miss, so they have to be oem. gettin all of them used off ebay or wrecking yard saves money but you dont know what condition theyre in. new oem 2500 axles are like 3-400/each, used can be had for less than 100/ea. even just buying new oem cv joints were nearly 300/ea last i checked. best option would prob be used 2010+ axles with new oem pre-2010 cv joints

lifted widens the track width, so i ended up with RCV axles, custom length, correct inner, correct outer no spacers but price keeps going up on them 2800$ish now iirc but you could definitely start with them if you got money to burn
 

89Suburban

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at stock height or lowered (if i was doing it all over) i would prob still grab oem axles and swap the outer cv joint needed (33spline pre-10 2500) onto the 8bolt inner joint/shaft(2010+ 2500) i think the actual shafts are longer, youd still need a little cv axle spacer. i used cognito for them .5 or .8 i dont remember what ended up being the correct ones.
swapping the inner is easier and cheaper (cause you can do after market) but they are too short and need a longer spacer (or stacked)
problem is you need to buy 4 total axles, aftermarket the cv axles dont come off and the inner tripod joint is hit or miss, so they have to be oem. gettin all of them used off ebay or wrecking yard saves money but you dont know what condition theyre in. new oem 2500 axles are like 3-400/each, used can be had for less than 100/ea. even just buying new oem cv joints were nearly 300/ea last i checked. best option would prob be used 2010+ axles with new oem pre-2010 cv joints

lifted widens the track width, so i ended up with RCV axles, custom length, correct inner, correct outer no spacers but price keeps going up on them 2800$ish now iirc but you could definitely start with them if you got money to burn
I get all tingley in the pants when you do this..
 
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randeez

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I get all tingley in the pants when you do this..
i wish someone else, anyone else, would do this swap so i can quit having to be the sole proprietor of this mod and the only available person to answer these questions

also, since we are here. friend pulled transmission out at his shop. they went to roll it back out of the shop bay it was in and rear passenger caliper is locked up :nutkick: i just redid all the pads and rotors shit was fine i dunno wtf but he said pad was gone they had to pull the caliper off just to get it to roll
 

pwtr02ss

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i wish someone else, anyone else, would do this swap so i can quit having to be the sole proprietor of this mod and the only available person to answer these questions

also, since we are here. friend pulled transmission out at his shop. they went to roll it back out of the shop bay it was in and rear passenger caliper is locked up :nutkick: i just redid all the pads and rotors shit was fine i dunno wtf but he said pad was gone they had to pull the caliper off just to get it to roll
Same thing happened to me and my dad both. Changed the pads/rotors, passenger rear caliper stuck after a short drive.
 

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