Paint Resto

[soulsea]

So I think I'm going to keep the Subaru I was given last month as a beater. Problem is that although it's only one year old, it wasn't really taken care of and the paint has swirl marks, some water spots, and generally looks like ass to me.

I have a detailer that comes to my house every couple of weeks to wash the Range and this is what he suggested. Wash > Clay > Compound > Opticoat.

I know nothing of detailing other than handing over my keys, so is this going to restore and protect the paint as well as it can be done at this point? And should I have the car waxed after the opticoat or would it be redundant and unnecessary?

Thanks.

 

[Goodinblack]

Mainly redundant and unnecessary. You can wax it if a carnauba glow is desired...... won't last long anyway. Opticoat 2.0 has been discontinued. I take it he is using the professional version?

---------- Post added at 07:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:11 PM ----------

Also....... the coating will last a longggg time. Actually the paint may need to be polished before it will wear off if applied correctly.

 

[soulsea]

I guess, I'll make sure to ask him.

Does the entire process sound correct?

Is there any possibility of making it worse?

 

[Goodinblack]

Make it worse how do you mean?

Only thing that paint correction does...... that may be considered harmful is makes the clear coat thinner. The polishes abrade the clear to reveal a fresh surface under it.

All polishes do this and its not "bad"...... unless your have really thin clear coat anyway. There are gadgets that can measure the thickness.

---------- Post added at 07:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:16 PM ----------

Process sounds mostly correct. I always use IronX as a additional step.

Sure Brandon will also chime in shortly.

---------- Post added at 07:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:20 PM ----------

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/showthread.php?t=80782

---------- Post added at 07:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:23 PM ----------

Serge. There is a wealth of information on autogeek.net as well.

 

[soulsea]

Where in the process does IronX slide in and what does it achieve?

---------- Post added at 07:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:25 PM ----------

Lee I appreciate the links, but I don't have the will to become well informed on detailing ... if I get started next thing you know I'm obsessed like with retros. I just want to be sure he's going in the right direction and is going to improve the paint.

 

[Goodinblack]

Does the vehicle have RIDS?

Random Isolated Deep Scratches? Those are more difficult to remove and need more compounding and polishing..... at the cost of thinner clear.

Keep in mins that there is nothing much that will keep water marks from coming back. Even a sealant cannot truly prevent them.

 

[soulsea]

No RIDS.

 

[Goodinblack]

Here is what I did on mine a few weeks back.

Wash
Ironx
Clay
Polish/compound
LSP. Last step product. ie Wax or seal or opticoat etc

---------- Post added at 07:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:32 PM ----------

Some may say to skip the ironx and you should be fine. I would agree for the most part.

---------- Post added at 07:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:34 PM ----------

Dissolves embedded iron particles from rail dust and brakes etc

 

[soulsea]

Okay thanks Lee.

 

[Surf City Garage]

Lee seems to have you headed the right way here. IronX goes before Clay in the process if you really need that on your paint. Make sure your detailer has your paint 100% corrected of all the problems you want out before he throws down the coating. That coating is pretty hard, and can't simply be stripped.