HELP REPLACING VALVE LIFTERS, VLOM & CAMSHAFT PLEASE.

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Oldman1985

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Thank you so much knuskill for this info. I will definately get a second opinion. I wont be back home for maybe another 2-3 days and I will definately try it out.
 

blackjack

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I wouldn't waste my time with the dealers...the delete afm mod will not help if your cam is wiped. I'm an ole school racer and toy lover too and after dealer refused to honor their mistakes from a previous afm repair WITH THE WRONG PARTS AGAINST A TSB ISSUED MONTH EARLIER - I did it myself.

Went with a Comp Cam fairly mild, but more aggressive than factory than factory, LS7 lifters, did heads to spec, new springs and retainers, and replaced timing chain and water pump while in lol. This was at about 160,000 on my 2008 PPV.

Truck is a "beast", but still pulls 30' boat out of steep ramp like nothing and no issue in morning traffic. Gets around 15mpg when I drive "human" and just keep oil changed 0-30 syn or 5-30 since no longer afm. There are a few quick mods to intake and parts with gaskets cost less than $1000. plus chain, water pump and fluids. Labor at a shop that understands the vehicle should not exceed 1200-1500 MAX. Truck has close to another 100k, no issues.
have fun.
where are you??
Blackjack C-27
 
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Oldman1985

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I wouldn't waste my time with the dealers...the delete afm mod will not help if your cam is wiped. I'm an ole school racer and toy lover too and after dealer refused to honor their mistakes from a previous afm repair WITH THE WRONG PARTS AGAINST A TSB ISSUED MONTH EARLIER - I did it myself.

Went with a Comp Cam fairly mild, but more aggressive than factory than factory, LS7 lifters, did heads to spec, new springs and retainers, and replaced timing chain and water pump while in lol. This was at about 160,000 on my 2008 PPV.

Truck is a "beast", but still pulls 30' boat out of steep ramp like nothing and no issue in morning traffic. Gets around 15mpg when I drive "human" and just keep oil changed 0-30 syn or 5-30 since no longer afm. There are a few quick mods to intake and parts with gaskets cost less than $1000. plus chain, water pump and fluids. Labor at a shop that understands the vehicle should not exceed 1200-1500 MAX. Truck has close to another 100k, no issues.
have fun.
where are you??
Blackjack C-27


Thats cool man wish I knew more but alI I do is maintenance work on cars lol. I wouldnt know where to start. Also im stuck in an upside down loan. Just got the car 7 months ago from a used lot and warranty is out now im deep in the loan and dony know if its worth repairing. Monthly payments for this truck is already draining me. Im in the dumps.

Thanks im in California
 

omandave

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On my 2009 5.3 Suburban, I did the AFM delete with the intune I2 module... I also replaced my VLOM updated version (2010 +) and Oil pressure Sensor (I left the screen off below it, I removed it to avoid future clogging) Remanufactured Cylinder Heads, Valve Covers (updated drivers side) new head gaskets, new intake manifold gaskets (cleaned intake manifold), new serpentine belt, New "Old school" coolant plugs for the rear of the Cylinder Heads... new Spark plugs, new antifreeze, new 5W30 conventional oil (per the remanufactured Head requirement)

Parts were from RockAuto, found a 5% off code online, I spent about $1400. I own the Factory Service Manual for my rig... The bright pink ones.
It took me about 60 hours - Friday Saturday and Sunday morning... to get it complete. I wrote the steps down and checked them off as I went along into and then back out from the Head gaskets...

Dealer quoted me 4500 to do the top end job...

runs good now. I did it for the oil burning issue. ( new oil pan (updated with the AFM shield on the over pressure valve) and rear main oil seal were done just prior... I paid $1500 for those at the dealer - I don't have a lift so it became necessary, wife's daily driver.)

Hope this helps.
All in all the rebuild inlcuding the pan and rear oil seal housing cost me aroun $3000 new engine would have been around 8K, reman engine was 7K... I took a day of vacation and used the weekend... Hope to never get that personal with my engine ever again.
Oh yeah I am up North, in Washington
 
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Sunny

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guys please help me what is this ticking sound . is this lifter ticking or something else.

 

08grey

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Oil pressure is good?

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Sunny

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Oil pressure is good?

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this is what confusing me oil pressure on idle is around 20, 25 when on highway 40 if I really press ******* gas pedal then it goes over 50 to 60 is this normal, recently I did motor flush and changed the oil 5w30 it sound little less then before . let me know what do u think thanks for the reply .....
 

08grey

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Oil pressure numbers are in line.

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Sunny

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Oil pressure numbers are in line.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

so what do u think the ticking can be , I cannot hear the tick opening hood engine side , it comes underneath ....
 

iamdub

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2007 Chevy Tahoe LT 4WD Flexfuel
117xxx miles as of this post.

Purchased date
November 2016 113,*** miles

March 2017
@ 116,*** miles
Check engine light starts blinking
Stabilitrak Off / Service Stabilitrak
Traction Control Off / Service Traction Control lights would come on intermittently. When these lights come on the truck would drive really rough with a flapping noise and shift hard from 1st to 2nd gear and 2nd to 3rd. Then when the flashings disappear the truck would run fine and smooth again.

Code reads P0171= Fuel system lean bank 1 and P0301= Cylinder 1 misfire. I changed all Sparkplugs with ACDelcos Iridiums and AC Delco wires. Replaced coil on cylinder 1 and did a fuel injector cleaning with seafoam in the gas tank. The truck ran fine for a day then all the lights came right back on. The truck only operates roughly when these lights are on.

Finally took the truck to chevrolet to see what they come up with. Service manager says I have only 2 options since cylinder 1 valve lifter is bad and recommends I replace valve lifters, VLOM and the camshaft for about $5000 or put a new motor in for $7000 not including fluids and whatever else needed.

I cannot drive anywhere anymore as the lights would come on flashing more frequently now and im just paying for it to sit in my driveway.

I want to know how difficult of a job it is to replace the AFM Valve Lifters, VLOM and Camshaft? Can I just replace cylinder 1? What is every part needed to complete the job thoroughly. What parts brand is best? I know very little and only do maintenance work. Do I even need to do all of this work?



You can get a kit to delete the AFM system entirely, have it installed and everything tuned accordingly for under $2,000. The trick is finding a mechanic shop that is familiar with this. The surefire thing is to have a speed shop do it as they should certainly be experienced with it. All it entails is swapping in stock non-AFM components in place of your current stuff and retuning the PCM to not have AFM. It's a day-long job at most.
 

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