Heater not working

[SmileB44Death]

I’m having the same issue I replaced my thermostat because my car temperature was at the lowest point so I changed my thermostat and did a coolant flush. I then took the cap off the coolant and let my car run for 15 min to make sure there’s no bubbles and it didn’t work it’s still blowing out cold air only in the front

 

[David Smith]

Yeah I really need to fix mine. It is gonna be cold this weekend...might try and flush the heater core out

 

[V30Crewcab]

I had to do this to my dads truck. took both hoses off, flushed the heater core both ways. then he had good heat again.

 

[David Smith]

I just did this on my lunch break today.

Took off both heater hoses and flushed both ways a few times. Have good heat now!!!

Literally took less than 10 mins.

Thank you all for the help!

 

[SmileB44Death]

I just did this on my lunch break today.

Took off both heater hoses and flushed both ways a few times. Have good heat now!!!

Literally took less than 10 mins.

Thank you all for the help!

What did you buy to replace the liquid?

 

[SmileB44Death]

What did you buy to replace the liquid?

Or Is there a video?

 

[M1Gunner]

I just did this on my lunch break today.

Took off both heater hoses and flushed both ways a few times. Have good heat now!!!

Literally took less than 10 mins.

Thank you all for the help!

Awesome! Glad to hear it brother!

 

[David Smith]

What did you buy to replace the liquid?

I just replaced with water in mine.

If you are looking for step by step, there are a ton of videos online, but this is what I did...

While engine is cool, disconnect both heater hoses from firewall (just 2 simple hose clamps). Be gentle when removing because I am sure that the nipples can break off if you are too rough with them. Get about 10' of (preferably clear) 5/8" hose and an adapter that goes from female garden hose to 5/8" hose barb. Cut off 2' from the 10' hose so that you have an 8' piece and a 2' piece (these are the lengths that I used. If you find that other lengths are easier, it will not make a difference). Insert hose barb adapter into the 2' piece of clear hose and attach to garden hose. Now, attach the other end of the 2' hose to one of the nipples that go to the heater core and the 8' piece to the other nipple. It really doesn't matter which one you start with in my opinion because you will be flushing from both ways. Run your 8' hose into a bucket or whatever you want to use to catch the coolant from your heater core (Keep coolant away from animals and humans. Do not consume). Turn on water spigot. Not much, just about halfway open or so. You do not want to create a surge of pressure in the heater core. For me, once I saw that there were no more air bubbles coming out of the 8' tube into the bucket, I opened the water hose valve all the way for maximum flow. I let it run for 2-3 minutes, then I turned the water off and swapped the 2' hose and 8' hose around and repeated. I did this 3 or 4 times until I saw no more debris coming from the heater core. Replace heater hoses and hose clamps. Remove your radiator cap (while engine is still cold) and start the truck. You will have to add some water/coolant. While the truck is running, just watch the radiator reservoir and make sure that it stays topped off. Put radiator cap back on. You should be done now. This completely fixed my heater issue in the front on of my Tahoe. I did not use ANY hose clamps on the clear hose while I was flushing because they fit pretty snug and there will not really be any pressure on the lines. No need to waste the time with them in my opinion.

Hope this helps!

 

[SmileB44Death]

I just replaced with water in mine.

If you are looking for step by step, there are a ton of videos online, but this is what I did...

While engine is cool, disconnect both heater hoses from firewall (just 2 simple hose clamps). Be gentle when removing because I am sure that the nipples can break off if you are too rough with them. Get about 10' of (preferably clear) 5/8" hose and an adapter that goes from female garden hose to 5/8" hose barb. Cut off 2' from the 10' hose so that you have an 8' piece and a 2' piece (these are the lengths that I used. If you find that other lengths are easier, it will not make a difference). Insert hose barb adapter into the 2' piece of clear hose and attach to garden hose. Now, attach the other end of the 2' hose to one of the nipples that go to the heater core and the 8' piece to the other nipple. It really doesn't matter which one you start with in my opinion because you will be flushing from both ways. Run your 8' hose into a bucket or whatever you want to use to catch the coolant from your heater core (Keep coolant away from animals and humans. Do not consume). Turn on water spigot. Not much, just about halfway open or so. You do not want to create a surge of pressure in the heater core. For me, once I saw that there were no more air bubbles coming out of the 8' tube into the bucket, I opened the water hose valve all the way for maximum flow. I let it run for 2-3 minutes, then I turned the water off and swapped the 2' hose and 8' hose around and repeated. I did this 3 or 4 times until I saw no more debris coming from the heater core. Replace heater hoses and hose clamps. Remove your radiator cap (while engine is still cold) and start the truck. You will have to add some water/coolant. While the truck is running, just watch the radiator reservoir and make sure that it stays topped off. Put radiator cap back on. You should be done now. This completely fixed my heater issue in the front on of my Tahoe. I did not use ANY hose clamps on the clear hose while I was flushing because they fit pretty snug and there will not really be any pressure on the lines. No need to waste the time with them in my opinion.

Hope this helps!

Thank you very descriptive!

 

[David Smith]

Thank you very descriptive!

Let us know how it goes!