Engine ticking 3 days after oil change. Told I need a new engine.

[VikingTrad3r]

im subbing because id like to help if i can and also want to know the dealers name!! what losers.

unfortunately i do not have the same engine or year but i can still help.

there has been a suggestion for additive into the oil and suggestion to diagnose the current oil pressure relate at idle, I agree with both of those statements but here's how I would approach: first things first I would drop the oil and change the filter right now. No matter what. here is what I did when I had a similar situation on my 6.0 where immediately following and oil change where I used a new type of filter and a very basic type of oil with no additives advertised on the bottle,I started having low oil pressure issues and my dash was going off like crazy on my 2006 Dinali XL. I nursed the vehicle home, it was ticking away, dropped the oil , And put on a fresh filter. my vehicle is high mileage call the oil that I normally use is called quaker state defy. I normally use the Fram high mileage filter.

I think what happened in the case of my situation is there is an O ring on the oil pick up tube in the oil pan. I think because I cheap doubt on using basic oil with no Swellers, I think the O-ring basically shrunk a little bit and I lost some prime on the pick up tube.

I say this not necessarily because the same situation might be causing your issue, I do not even know if you have pick up tubes in the 6.2, but there are things that can happen after an oil change that can lead to your situation.

And it seems as though you did have an oil change right before your problem. It could be at the oil filter is collapsed inside, if you have a saws all you could have a look. That would be a good thing to know! Not only that you could take it back to the dealer and dump the leaking oil filter on to this douche bags desk. I am talking about the dealership who told you to buy a new engine not your friends who have been doing your mechanical work. I would not blame them, things happen.

The very first thing I would do is go out and buy a new filter and buy hi mileage oil with good cleaning agents and Swellers. I use Quaker State defy. there are many others to choose from on the Highledge side of things.

then I would start it up and see what happens. If you have any changes at all in the behaviour of the engine that is a good thing. If it is still bad and ticking then in fact you may have a stuck lifter. And then I would proceed as the boys up thread have suggested and put the additive into the engine and follow the directions on the additive can to the tea. Some additive packages you can drive around with, other out of packages you are not supposed to drive around with because they thin your oil out too much.

I am fairly confident you do not need a new engine!

I wish more people would spend one hour researching on forums rather than handing over their hard earned after-tax money to loser dealerships like the one you are unfortunately stuck with.

good luck, I wish you the best, if you are not set up for doing your own oil changes, it is very easy, and as strange as it sounds it does give you a bit of a sense of empowerment to be able to do the small things to your own vehicle. Notwithstanding if you are a professional and earn a very high salary, for some reason I have found do my own oil and basic automotive repairs to take the place of things like yoga in my wife's life! I find it therapeutic !!

I wish you the best please report back, and I apologize for the grammar in my post and perhaps poor spelling, I use Siri to write my blog posts to save time. I hope it all makes sense.

 

[montegutman]

Okay, so I have a 2010 Yukon Denali 6.2L motor. I have 97,*** miles on the car. Has always ran like a top and have never had any issues. I got my oil changed on 10/28, (by the same people that have always changed and have done work with vehicles in our family for over 20 years, so I like to think I trust them). On 11/1/16, coming home from work the engine started ticking and lights on my dash started lighting up. For example, check engine light flashed for a few seconds and then went off, service stabilitrak came on my dash, and the traction control light was lit up. I turned the fan off and tried to listen to where it was coming from, a few miles down the road the lights stopped and so did the ticking. Came home, parked it, shut it off, turned it back on... no tick. The next day I drove it, no ticking. On 11/3/16 I went to work had only drove about 10 miles and it started ticking again, louder than before and this time it never stopped. It was worse when I pushed on the accelerator. I had the GMC dealership in my town pick it up from my work to get it checked out. They called me later and said the lifters were what was making the noise, and I needed a new engine. Blown away, my response was what is the problem...I was told my lifters had worn down the cam bearings. Not knowing anything about motors, I asked, ok, can the cam bearings be replaced and his response was "Yea, with a new motor". My question is, is this really the only thing that can be done? I don't believe they ever got into the motor, I think it was all diagnostic. They quoted me $8,100 in parts and labor for the new motor. The cheapest crate motor I can find, with labor comes to a little over $7,000. I just can't believe at 97,*** on a 6 year old vehicle that I would need to put in a new motor and feel like there has to be some other option. There is oil in the engine. It looks clean. What are my options for getting the noise to stop? I haven't been driving it since I was told it needed a new motor. I don't have another vehicle and am having to borrow one from a family member to drive so I need to get something figured out soon. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

 

[montegutman]

I did not see that you defined where you live so I can not help in recommending a repair shop.
What I recommend is to look online in your area for a reputable, as reported by local reviews, engine Rebuild Shop. Let them assess the cause and quote a rebuild price if necessary. If you do not choose a rebuild, if necessary, they may offer a factory crate short block. A short block is a core engine built to factory specs on which they will reuse all other engine components for a savings to you. Good Luck.
Montegutman

 

[Floep]

I'm with Yates.. The fact the lights were going desperate means, it wants attention now!! Change the FILTER! there e is a history of those things having problems that show up like yours. Cams, cam bearings, lifters don't wear out at once. Change the filter and replace the oil with a known brand. What do you lose but a few bucks and you may have it licked, if it has not run too long, since the sabotage!