Driver's door FUBAR

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Antichrist

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Well it's not FUBAR, but I have some serious problems that I'm not 100% sure of.

1995 Tahoe LT

First, the locks. Power locks work on both switches, and Key FOB for passenger door ONLY.
Driver door power locks are completely inoperable. It only works manually. I was thinking the actuator is bad, but thought I'd ask first...

And of course, there are the other issues...

Window regulator is majorly Effed. When rolling the window down, it hits the lock bar, then when all the way down, it hits the inner door frame (the black metal bolt on section) I'm pretty sure that it's bent, and I can see where its been rubbing, but I can't straighten it inside the door, I also don't know how accurate the bends need to be, if I were to remove it and straighten it myself. When rolling the window up, it catches on the lock bar, binds up, slows down, then pops and frees itself, but only goes up about 3/4, I then have to lift the window by hand, then hit the button again to get it to go all the way up.

The lock bar also appears bent, it doesn't rest in the two white bar guides that it's supposed to snap in to, the right side guide is missing the snaps (this is where the regulator also rubs and binds up), and when I snap it into the left guide, it binds on the bar, and it's extremely difficult to operate the lock manually. The regulator is bent just to the right of the center pivot, and it's the regulator bar that faces the interior that's binding.

What would you guys suggest in tracking down the power lock problem?

And would it be better to just buy a new regulator, or is it easy enough to straighten this one out?


EDIT: I just found a similar door lock issue in the newer truck section saying it's an actuator, so I'm currently betting that's the problem. I'm probably going to pull it tomorrow or Tuesday (whenever I have some time) and test the actuator, take it apart, clean it etc.. and check all the wiring as well, since the previous owner put some butt connectors on both actuator wires..
 
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SunlitComet

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you can test for power at the actuator connector when play with the switches to see if the actuator is actually getting power and I would replace the regulator out right.
 

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