Broken Motor Mounts

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iamdub

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My concern would be additional NVH.
Anyone have experience with the Hummer H3 GM OEM motor mounts vs. original stock ones?
Anyont have experience with the Atomic Fab motor mounts vs. the original stock ones?

If NVH is a concern, you do not want poly mounts. Granted, the vibes would only be an issue at idle.

I replaced mine with H3 mounts. If there is a difference in NVH, it's too little to tell. Certainly not enough of a difference to warrant doing the job over again when the replacement water balloons pop if I had went back with the original style.

No experience with the AF ones. But I've been in plenty of vehicles with poly mounts. Both in the round universal style like AF and OE-styled mounts with poly instead of rubber. Stiff is stiff and you'll feel any vibes your engine produces.
 

Geotrash

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If NVH is a concern, you do not want poly mounts. Granted, the vibes would only be an issue at idle.

I replaced mine with H3 mounts. If there is a difference in NVH, it's too little to tell. Certainly not enough of a difference to warrant doing the job over again when the replacement water balloons pop if I had went back with the original style.

No experience with the AF ones. But I've been in plenty of vehicles with poly mounts. Both in the round universal style like AF and OE-styled mounts with poly instead of rubber. Stiff is stiff and you'll feel any vibes your engine produces.
I have the H3 mount on the driver's side of my cammed '12, and I noticed a difference in idle vibration right away. But it's minor and I kinda like it. Most of all though, I appreciate the fact that I won't have to do that job again on it.
 

iamdub

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I have the H3 mount on the driver's side of my cammed '12, and I noticed a difference in idle vibration right away. But it's minor and I kinda like it. Most of all though, I appreciate the fact that I won't have to do that job again on it.

Of course, with a cam and choppier idle, all the vibes grow pretty much exponentially. I've had my H3s (both sides) since 2017 or 2018, I think. With my cam and the idle tuned to exaggerate the chop, it'd be felt plenty even with the stock balloons. My point was that I don't believe the H3 mounts increase NVH over the original style enough to be a concern when their benefit is not having to do the job ever again. I still don't see what the significance the H3 mounts have compared to the standard GMT900 truck or '800 truck and wagon mounts.
 

Fosscore

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I investigated the H3 mounts and the numerous threads here. I shared with my mechanic and he advised for me to just go with OEM. Mine lasted about 83k miles and I was getting the dreaded clunk. The drivers side was toast and the other 2 were near EOL. So we changed out both motor mounts and the transmission mount at the same time. Idle is good, no clunk and only a BBP tune without any other goodies like you boys have. Just my .02 to the the thread. YMMV.
 

CMoore711

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I have the H3 mount on the driver's side of my cammed '12, and I noticed a difference in idle vibration right away. But it's minor and I kinda like it. Most of all though, I appreciate the fact that I won't have to do that job again on it.

Completely understandable and I get it; Although I don't have a cam at the moment, I'm not sure going down that path is completely off the table. I too could see kinda liking it a bit.

Of course, with a cam and choppier idle, all the vibes grow pretty much exponentially. I've had my H3s (both sides) since 2017 or 2018, I think. With my cam and the idle tuned to exaggerate the chop, it'd be felt plenty even with the stock balloons. My point was that I don't believe the H3 mounts increase NVH over the original style enough to be a concern when their benefit is not having to do the job ever again. I still don't see what the significance the H3 mounts have compared to the standard GMT900 truck or '800 truck and wagon mounts.

Exactly what I needed to hear and was more or less where I was leaning anyway. The job doesn't sound fun at all, so if a marginal increase in NVH is the trade off of replacing the motor mounts being a one and done I think I'll be ok with it.

I investigated the H3 mounts and the numerous threads here. I shared with my mechanic and he advised for me to just go with OEM. Mine lasted about 83k miles and I was getting the dreaded clunk. The drivers side was toast and the other 2 were near EOL. So we changed out both motor mounts and the transmission mount at the same time. Idle is good, no clunk and only a BBP tune without any other goodies like you boys have. Just my .02 to the the thread. YMMV.

The stock motor mounts on my '13 Escalade ESV have lasted to about 142K miles.

There are two part numbers for OEM Motor mounts for my '13 Escalade ESV
GM 15854939
GM 15854941

The only difference between the two that I can pick up is GM 1584939 says "without flex fuel"; Other than that they list the same exact vehicle models and years as being compatible. The OEM hydraulic replacement motor mounts are significantly cheaper than the Hummer H3 motor mounts; You're looking at $118/ea. vs. $258/ea.
 

Doubeleive

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Completely understandable and I get it; Although I don't have a cam at the moment, I'm not sure going down that path is completely off the table. I too could see kinda liking it a bit.



Exactly what I needed to hear and was more or less where I was leaning anyway. The job doesn't sound fun at all, so if a marginal increase in NVH is the trade off of replacing the motor mounts being a one and done I think I'll be ok with it.



The stock motor mounts on my '13 Escalade ESV have lasted to about 142K miles.

There are two part numbers for OEM Motor mounts for my '13 Escalade ESV
GM 15854939
GM 15854941

The only difference between the two that I can pick up is GM 1584939 says "without flex fuel"; Other than that they list the same exact vehicle models and years as being compatible. The OEM hydraulic replacement motor mounts are significantly cheaper than the Hummer H3 motor mounts; You're looking at $118/ea. vs. $258/ea.
if it is not needed right away the price flucuates so you might find the mounts for less over time. I paid $86 for 1 and $90 for another.
 

solli5pack

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Replaced both my mounts on the 08 Yukon this weekend. The D/S wasn't that bad but passenger side was a PITA! For passenger side I removed the wheel, wheel house liner and starter to get it done. Drivers side I didn't need to remove anything but the mount. Definitely need an impact tool, makes the job so much easier. I used the stock GM ones because I didn't want to deal with any vibration at all. I'm happy they are done. I paid a dealer $1100 to do just the D/S on my Suburban 4 years ago!
 

mikez71

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Glad I went H3 mounts due to the way they are designed, I don't see them failing like the hydros.
Nothing to keep the stockers from pulling apart, whereas the H3 mount is a plate sandwiched between two rubber pads.

Zero difference in vibration with only the driver mount, will update if I notice differently with both installed. .

I don't know how you guys did it with the steering shaft in place..
Passenger side need remove heatshield, starter and dipstick.

IMG_4784.jpg
 
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j91z28d1

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Glad I went H3 mounts due to the way they are designed, I don't see them failing like the hydros.
Nothing to keep the stockers from pulling apart, whereas the H3 mount is a plate sandwiched between two rubber pads.

Zero difference in vibration with only the driver mount, will update if I notice differently with both installed. .

I don't know how you guys did it with the steering shaft in place..
Passenger side need remove heatshield, starter and dipstick.

View attachment 425018


did you find them for less than 600$ they are on my list but the $ hurts a bit for now
 

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