2012 XL Denali + BDS 6" Coilover lift kit

[iconyq]

Starting the thread as I acquire all the pieces I need. I have the lift kit and going to be going through it to make sure all is there. Gathering some misc parts and had some thoughts...

1. Thinking of adding 3" Zone boy lift. Any thoughts? How does this change any angles or track width I need.

2. I will be running 22×10 wheels. Thinking of going a 37x10.5 but might stick with 35 like 01Konvict and I have talked about. Studying weight right now on tires. Wondering if 37" force immediate regear.

3. Looking at UCA but that will be later.

Appreciate the planning info.

 

[01Konvict]

This is going to look so good!!

1. No and if any 2" max but not needed cause you can turn up the coilovers up 2" to get 8" lift. Rears will need a 2" coil spacer so its level.

2. 22x10 anything billet! Stay on 35s cause its going to suck bad enough with the 3.42s on 35s.

3. Shouldn't need them until turning up coilovers to 8" and recommend the zone boxed uppers.
http://zoneoffroad.com/zone-offroad-products-suspension-upper-control-arms-chevy/c2310

 

[iconyq]

Thanks for the input again. It is looking like

1. I will pick up the spacer when I pick up the kit tomorrow - took 3 days to get in

2. I already have the wheels. They are Chrome wheels. We will see how heavy these are when on the truck and rolling. Yea I was thinking of swapping them out to 4.11 gears. I need to talk to a couple shops in the area on how fast they can turn them around. I will most likely test the 3.42s to see how bad I do not like them I am from the performance car world so I cant get too much away from the power I bought the 6.2L for. So much that I have looked at the TT kit for it.

3. $400...yea they are going on now. I am going to replace everything else under there that is not in the kit with new Moog stuff at the same time...might as well I am under there and have to take it all off.

I will of course get pics along the way and provide some how to. When I get the kit on I will battle myself with starting at 6" or go straight to 8"

One question...driveshaft length. I can grab a stock front shaft for under $100 and sent to a shop to get modified. they just want to know how long. If I can do it now I do not have to wait when I get the kit on and drive it right away.

 

[01Konvict]

No problem dude always to help. Remember to get rear bora wheel spacers for the rear to even track width. You will have to measure the cv spacer thickness to determine rear wheel spacer or you can call BDS and ask thickness then order spacers. BORAs are made to order so takes a couple weeks to get them.

The chrome will look good but can go wider and lighter on billets. Are they the stock wheels? If so you will need a front 3/16 or 1/4" spacer to clear wheel to knuckle. Coming from performance you will want gears. Go straight to 8" on 35s you will like it!

Driveshaft should be right at 36" total. Take the stock length front one and get it made same overall length maybe 1/4-1/2" longer max with dual cardan joint at transfer case side. Make sure its a one piece end from U joint into spline. Mine was a two piece that a bolt fell out and it shook the truck to death. Think BDS makes a shaft and they could tell you the length if you wanted extra info. Mine side by side were minimal difference.

 

[iconyq]

So not much competition in Austin for Driveshaft works and 90% of the people/shops I talk to send me to Inland Truck. Well based on my conversation with them - building a 1 piece Driveshaft with yoke eliminator I am looking about the same as buying a CST, Powercomp or other brand. The plus side to buying the aftermarket ones is it will be sitting right here when I do the lift and no downtime. The local option they would want me to put in the yoke eliminator and then measure it and then they will build the rest. That is a 1-2 day turnaround. I would either be down for that timeframe or I would have run around with the stock driveshaft in and deal with all the vibrations and noise. Decisions Decisions.

Just helped a buddy put a 5" Superlift on his 2002 Dodge 2500 which has me itching to do mine now.Based on schedules it looks like I will be installing 4/15.

Items to order this week:
Tires for wheels - size still debating. Leaning toward K02 right now but like the weight savings on the Toyo. I think I will end up with the Toyo.
Zone Upper Control Arms
All other suspension items while I am in there - tie rods, lower control arms, etc
Resistors for the autoride and self leveling

 

[01Konvict]

The front shaft will need the dual cardan joint to work. Rear could do yoke eliminator but I think with your XL I think the angles will be ok. It's worth a shot to see if it does end up creating vibrations.

I would also check weight on Nitto Ridge Grapplers think they weigh less too. I prefer the tread and sidewall over the R/T. Other suspension parts shouldn't be needed but you can get new lower arms and tie rods. I would get stuff from rock auto for the prices. Resistors can be found off ebay for electronic dampening wiring. You will still need to measure resistance and voltage on the ride height sensors to get resistors for them to not activate dash warnings.

 

[iconyq]

I think the way they Driveshaft shop was looking to build it was put in the yoke eliminator, then he wanted me to measure the remaining space and then add the 1 piece with dual cardan ends. Regardless I do not have the downtime to do this and the shop is about 45 minutes each way so that is not going to work out. I now just need to decide what driveshaft to go with. I am leaning toward ProComp just due to the CST seems long from your 36" measurement and they keep calling theirs like 56". I saw a thread somewhere that said BDS had a driveshaft but they keep sending me to voicemail

I know I do not have to redo all the suspension at the same time but I figure while I am under there and the mileage on the parts, I might as well. I will go all Moog for the arms/joints. I have a sickness of overdoing most things like when I remodeled my house and put triple beams in where double was all that was needed

I am spending the rest of this week checking out tire weights and deciding on size. I am sitting on the 35s side right now. I do not want to "go to small" but I also do not want to dog down the truck - and not re-gearing right now. I did talk to a company about manifolds for the truck for a future turbo project maybe cant kick that performance bug.

I will take some pics this weekend and get the slideshow started.

Cosmetics when lifting
remove side moldings
remove roof rack
smoke out rear lights
axle drop exhaust

 

[01Konvict]

My front shaft was all brand new. Try calling Zone for a shaft or Fabtech. They should be right around $500. Mine started out as 36.5" but got cut down to 36.25" and could be 37" with ease. The measurements can vary depending on what place records length. Most are U joint to U joint but Fabtech overall length was 39 or something. I know my new end piece caused me to get a new shaft boot at the transfer case. I ordered a longer one from a Sprinter van so I will let you know how that works out.

You do know you could calculate the length if you use trig equation. The diff will drop X inches with brackets and measure length of stock shaft then solve for added length. Like I said though mine is only an 1-2" longer than stock.

Tires would be the lightest weight semi-aggressive tire for me. Something like nitto ridge or toyo r/t.

 

[iconyq]

Finding the driveshaft has become not easy. I talked to BDS, Zone, and a couple of the 4wheel places around. BDS and Zone do not have one. The PowerComp one is showing it is 54 inches!!! I keep telling the 4wheel shop guys they are pulling the Sierra shaft and they tell me that is what it keeps coming up as. I have not talked to PC directly but thinki I am just going to go custom.

I talked to Tom Wood's and really it is measuring this and that and sending him the info. I might be able to do it this weekend. Reading a couple other posts there was another company - Powertrain Industries that was recommended to a Sierra Denali lifter...Gave them a call and they seemed pretty knowledgeable and interested to take it on. I am awaiting a call back from them today. If this works out and they have the info handy I will just with.

Tires purchased. That one hurt Decided to go with the Nitto Grappler Ridge. It was the look I was going for. 35x12.5x22
TPMS Sensors are on their way in and then i will bring wheels and sensors in to the shop and they will install

Trying to decide what to go with Grill and should I go all black or an accent color on some of the lift components ( would be very minimal).

 

[01Konvict]

I know Fabtech , CST, and Bulletproof all sell a front shaft. I double checked mine and it could definitely be around 37" with ease. My new male spline end needed a longer dust boot to prevent water/dirt going in the spline area. The stock boot didn't fit snug on original FTS male spline so it rusted inside and I had to slide hammer mine out when I replaced the end. I got a boot for a Sprinter van and used some stainless hose clamps to snug it up. It worked perfectly.

Glad you went with ridge. They will look great. Also why not keep stock Denali grille? Could powder the lift parts and match the GMC logo in grille.