"when shifted to reverse with brakes being held it makes a super loud grinding noise." There is your clue. When the brakes are applied, the Tcase, Driveshaft and rear end are not rotating. But internally the transmission is. Its your transmission, not your Tcase. And the damage is likely...
There is no way that noise in the original video is piston slap or valve tick. That noise has definite sounds of something that has worn to the point there is excessive play. Like a rod bearing that has spun and completely ejected its remnants from the journal it once sat in. BUT.... The...
The internal diameter of brake hoses and lines would rarely ever see anything large enough to restrict them. The stereotypical brake drag causes are: Collapsed brake hose, bad master cylinder, stuck or improperly assembled caliper or air in the system(either caused by improper bleed or there is...
You are in luck. I have a 05 Yukon Denali and (2) 03 Tahoe LT's. Denali has Hydroboost. What is it that you need to see or know about the brake pedals?
Sounds like to me the mechanic claiming the engine needs to be torn down to replace the RMS is thinking GEN 1 engine and is not really experienced on Gen 3/4 engines. The Gen 1 and 3/4 as most of us know here are 2 very different animals when it comes to the RMS.
How did you bleed the brakes? Old school pump, hold, crack bleeder loose, close bleeder and then repeat all the way around OR did you use a bi directional scanner like a Tech II and use the auto bleed feature?
Check transmission fluid level. Drain some Tcase fluid and look for glitter and check the magnet of the tranny and the Tcase for chunks. You will need to drop tranny pan to check the magnet.
I disagree. Its almost always either a bad/worn TPS, Its associated wire harness (broken wire), Bad TAC module wiring harness (broken wire), Bad TAC module, Bad/worn Foot pedal Pot or ground issue. In that order of most likely fault.
Chain stretch is very common on a high mileage transfer case. If not caught fast enough it results in the chain chewing up the inside of the case and come peaking out of a YUGE hole that it has made which destroys the case.
https://www.allstategear.com/NP246-Chains-s/2472.htm...
Have a look at your upper control arms. The eccentric cams specifically. See if there are signs of being moved which throws the angle of the tire where it meets the road out (caster/camber). Also a common result of a deep pothole is a bent tie rod. It will be obvious and it will be your inner...
There are 4 possible causes to the symptoms the OP listed.
First is a bad battery. Has a weak cell and cant put out the correct voltage under load.
Second is a bad alternator. And if the alternator is the cause it certainly can ruin a battery due to overcharging.
Third is silver migration in...
Thats the typical culprit...but that problem will produce a "reduced engine power" on the cluster and the engine RPM will default to around 1000rpm no matter what your throttle input is. If you were just having stalling problems then I would replace fuel filter AND the pump, esepcially when the...
OP wrote "“low engine power”...Did you mean reduced engine power? If so this is a clue and usually means you have the dreaded broken wires at the throttle body for the fly by wire. A wire breaks in that harness and you will get that reduced engine power along with just above idle max throttle...
When you squeezed the caliper pistons back in so you could install the thicker brake rotors, you may have ended up with a leaking piston seal and now have air in your brakes. Start checking for brake fluid on rotors and calipers.
Your master cylinder and booster are not the culprits here. Everytime you crack open a brake line connection you are letting air into the system. That is a no go. The brakes will have to be bled....but likely they will need bled anyway AFTER you replace the collapsed rubber brake hose that is...
TCCM is likely lost because of a dirty or faulty Tcase Position Sensor (commutator) that is built into the shift moder (but is replaceable). This is the most common fault with the symptom you have. Doesnt hurt to get the codes that are thrown before throwing parts at it though.
Yup a cracked flexplate will mimic the noise in the vid too. The noise comes from the flexplate distorting outward around the crack and the nearest torque converter bolt head strikes the bellhousing area.
The carbon restricts or completely stops the pintle from moving depending on where it gets wedged. It can wedge between the pintle and the inner bore of the IAC or behind or in front of the pintle reducing or completely stopping any movement inward and outward. This was a very common problem...
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