To be honest, I wouldnt do an sas for 33's and weekend wheeling... I had 35's on an ext cab 99 z71 and it did just fine... You could do a body lift and fit the 33's... But to answer your question:
There are lots of ways you can go.... cheapest way is a dana44 front and keep your rear axle... A...
There are kits for whatever vehicle you have really... You just need to make some decisions first... What size tires are u gona run and how hard are you gone beat on it would probably determine what axle you need up fron... Also, do you wana go leaf or coil... driver or passenger drop.... I...
Something like this is an overload spring that wont lift your truck but will help when you load the rear with weight... so maybe replace your tired rear springs with new OEM and add this.... wont be a "lift", keep a good ride, ad help with the extra weight... extended bumpstops, and new...
Same guy, lol.... You shouldnt need any type of stabilizer... several ways you can go after your problems...
Front: Rubbing when turning can be solved by getting new rims with less backspacing, thus sticking the tires further out away from the body.... Can also just get wheel spacers for the...
So is your rubbing only in the rear??? Do you offroad much and rub at full flex??? If it rubs when flexed out, maybe look into getting longer bumpstops... Your bumpstops may be gone now.... That would keep you tires from eating the fender wells and you wouldnt have to lift....
I may do some swampers... These are the 37" hummer tires.... Its hard to get away from them since they so cheap... this set probably only has 30% left...
So finaly got to drive my 97 Tahoe SAS.... It had a f'd tranny when I traded for it... Had a 700r4 built and installed... Rides pretty good... The suspension is better than I figured it would be for as tall as it is... I have to figure out the steering though... its a little loose.... I think...
I remember beating my bars from the rear towards the front to swap keys... I am pretty sure you could do the same just far enough to clear the cross member, move the bars down below the cross member and then beat them backwards out of the fronts...
I had swapped keys, but never needed to actually remove the bar... I am not 100% on if they remove forward or backwards... but when you get to that point, youll only have 2 options lol.... just be real carefull around the gear puller when it has tension... put as little tension on it turning the...
Be very carefull that you have the gear puller jaws secure on the cross member.... it will be holding alot of weight/torsion from the bars... ALSO, have the front of the truck on jack stands when doing this to take as much weight off the bars as possible...
You need to get a 2 jaw gear puller... The torsion bars go into the cross member and are twisted by a "key", and that key is turned by a bolt.... unscrew the bolt as much as you can and the key will rest on the "nut" that the bolt goes through... There is a divet in the keys to place a 2 jaw...
So the cheap cheap route is get some leaf spring blocks from auto parts store... thats the worst option.... You can get helper springs, which will help the arch of your current springs.... better option but still bad... The best option is to get replacement springs... Get a little lift kit that...
What size are the tires??? Probably 33's.... since the front is sitting higher, I would think the the torsion bars are cranked... Probably not a lift, just bar cranking... But we could tell you better with good pics of the suspension...
So it seems that my front drive shaft may have too much angle on it... I will probably take out a leaf in the front (sas) since it has a little rake... But I am also wondering if I can/should clock the t-case... Any ideas on that??
You can get the ford torsion keys for some lift... they are "indexed" different than chevy, so you can twist the torsion bars more... ofcourse the more you crank=the more tires and parts wear out...
What pressure are the tires? I usualy keep mine about 35... Less pressure will allow more shock absorbing... some fill to 50 or 60 and that is just too harsh of a ride for me... if anything, I would think that leaf springs get softer and not harsher... most new leaf packs give a harsh ride...
Everything being equal, 37 to 35 is 1 inch lower... the other inch is at the top of the tire... Also, if you get 35's with big lugs, it may not be much lower than bald 37's.... I would say just replace parts as needed if they break... probably a rebuild of the 4l60e tranny is coming...
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