It seems to start and stop as the RPM is dropping when idling down. That would be something that is activated by a specific harmonic range so I'm leaning towards a loose part rattling.
You should be able to slide it off the diff flange after removing the bolts. There's a recess on the flange surface so you have to push the axle toward the knuckle and that makes enough clearance to drop it down. With the strut assembly out, there is plenty of room to pull the axle. I've never...
I bought my '11 5.3 new and it had 234k on it when I sold it in Dec. AFM was active until about 220k when I used an OBD plug in disabler to eliminate the clunkiness going between modes. I changed oil every 10k with full syn (whatever brand was cheapest from Castrol, Supertech to Kirkland) and it...
There is a lot of existing info on this forum regarding AFM deletes including build threads and parts list if you search. My 5.3 had 234k miles and no lifter tick when I sold it.
2018 and later with the 6.2 have the 10l80. I went through a similar search for two months looking for a 2018-20 and finally paused. I was willing to accept mileage up to 120k with maintenance history but the small number of trucks that actually had good history sold at a premium and were...
The transmission bell housing bolts on top are best accessible with a long ratchet extension (3ft). If you remove the intake, you can drop the rear of the engine down a bit further to get the socket extension over the top of the transmission while wrenching from the rear of the output and onto...
I had a similar dilemma with my '11 Yukon last year. I didn't have a clear tick but the engine started sounding different and you know different after 234k miles of seat time. In 2025 alone, I spent $11k on the truck: $4200 for a trans rebuild and the rest on parts with me doing all the repairs...
I have always bled the PS system by turning the steering wheel lock to lock about 20 times with the wheels off the ground and it has worked every time. Symptoms of air in the system would be whining noise or stiff steering, not loose steering.
I went to 234k on a '11 Yukon with the 5.3 before selling in Dec and no issues. I did a 500 mile break in oil change when new and then 10k mile oil changes thereafter with full syn. I used a plug in AFM disabler at around 215k to eliminate the annoying shift between v4 and v8.
There are two different grades of Moog, one made in China and one US made. The part numbers are different and the US made has a lifetime warranty. I installed CK80669 and CK80670 (upper and lower numbers) and recommend them. I highly recommend you have AC Delco front alignment kits (45K5012) on...
It's easy to access the oil pressure sending unit with the trans out so I'd swap that. I pulled the intake manifold to allow the engine to tip back a bit further so I had new intake gaskets on hand.
I've always bled with wheels off the ground, slowly turning the steering wheel clock to clock about 20 times and it has worked every time. Reservoir open during the bleeding. Do it slowly or you'll have a huge mess.
If the rubber to metal connection is leaking, you can potentially remove the rubber hose and crimp fitting and replace the section with new hose and a step clamp. I did this on the transmission cooler lines 4 years ago and no leaks. It was much easier than replacing the entire line when only the...
The seals are called duckbill or cap seals. I keep extras from new lines because they are ridiculously expensive to buy separately and should be $0.50 a piece. If you replace your lines, new seals will be included.
There are several videos from Plews Edelman and Terrepower online showing how to...
I have the Harbor Freight version of your OTC clam style compressor and they work very well while being much safer than the rod style.
I recommend replacing the strut mounts (#16 here) since they have a rubber bearing which can wear,, especially at 200k miles. There is nothing more annoying...
Check your steering rack. If you think you will be replacing it in the near future (signs of leaking, etc.), they come with inner tie rods. It will save you the money and hassle of doing the job twice including another alignment.
I had oil leaking onto my oil filter and it was tricky to pinpoint the source. I cleaned everything up, added UV dye and eventually tracked it down to a rear main seal leak that was propagating onto the oil filter. Start clean and use dye if you aren’t 100% certain where the leak is coming from.
I did this 6 mos. ago on 4wd Yukon. I tried with the strut in place and there is not enough room and I had to pull the strut assembly. I did not remove the tie rod but did remove the sway bar link.
Always replace the axle nut - it's one time use.
If you have a scanner that can read GM diagnostic codes (I have an old Actron that does) you'll get more specific info on the issue. I had the same problem and the GM code pointed to a faulty 4wd selector switch on the dash. The terminals on the back of the switch become corroded and send...
How long were the plugs in service? I always swap plugs based on mileage or time (~6 years) with the latter being a preventative measure to avoid stuck plugs.
I changed mine last fall and used a flex head ratchet at 90 degrees to hold the top of the bolts from below while using an impact. My bolts were very corroded so it's recommended to have new fasteners on hand, especially if you live in the salt belt.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.